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Hardware.md

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<table>
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<tr><td><b>Meter</b></td><td><b>Modification</b></td><td><b>R1/R2, R3/R4</b></td><td><b>Gauge type setting</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td>H&P <b>631-14672</b> 0-0.5V DC voltmeter</td><td>Pointer color changed from red to black using an Edding permanent marker</td><td>470R/8k2</td><td>H&P 631-14672</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Phaostron 0-5KV DC voltmeter (<b>300-07970</b>)</td><td>None</td><td>470R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog (0-5V)</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Phaostron "Cyclic Trim" meter (<b>631-15099</b>)</td><td>The two resistors and the pot inside the meter need to be removed, and the wire (which lead to the pot) needs to be re-attached to the input terminal.</td><td>470R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog (0-5V)</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Phaostron 0-75V DC voltmeter (<b>631-16471A</b>)</td><td>Internal resistor and caps need to be removed, the input terminals need to be connected directly to the meter's coil.</td><td>470R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog (0-5V)</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Phaostron 0-5KV DC voltmeter (<b>300-07970</b>)</td><td>None</td><td>470R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog 0-5V</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Phaostron "Cyclic Trim" meter (<b>631-15099</b>)</td><td>The two resistors and the pot inside the meter need to be removed, and the wire (which lead to the pot) needs to be re-attached to the input terminal.</td><td>470R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog 0-5V</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Phaostron 0-75V DC voltmeter (<b>631-16471A</b>)</td><td>Internal resistor and caps need to be removed, the input terminals need to be connected directly to the meter's coil.</td><td>470R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog 0-5V</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Phaostron R/h (<b>630-14457</b>)</td><td>Bottom adjustment screw needs to be removed, the metal "fork" (into which the screw reached) bent away to make room for the LED, but it MUST NOT touch any other metal part; the wire between this "fork" and the "+" terminal must remain. <b>Note</b>: The trim pots on CircuitSetup boards allow only between 2k and 6k resistance; this means that named wire must be replaced with a 56k resistor for reaching the total required resistance.</td><td>47k/13k</td><td>Generic Analog 0-2.048V</td></tr>
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</table>
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<table>
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<tr><td><b>Meter</b></td><td><b>Modification</b></td><td><b>R5/R6</b></td><td><b>Gauge type setting</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson Roentgens meter</td><td>Internal resistors (one axial, one that looks like a wire wrapped around paper) need to be removed, black wire from meter coil leading to v-shaped terminal in center needs to be attached to input terminal directly.</td><td>8k2/10k</td><td>Generic Analog (0-2.048V)</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-50V DC voltmeter</td><td>Internal resistor needs to be bridged</td><td>680R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog (0-5V)</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-100V DC voltmeter</td><td>Internal resistor needs to be bridged</td><td>680R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog (0-5V)</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson Roentgens meter</td><td>Internal resistors (one axial, one that looks like a wire wrapped around paper) need to be removed, black wire from meter coil leading to v-shaped terminal in center needs to be attached to input terminal directly.</td><td>8k2/10k</td><td>Generic Analog 0-2.048V</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-50V DC voltmeter</td><td>Internal resistor needs to be bridged</td><td>680R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog 0-5V</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-100V DC voltmeter</td><td>Internal resistor needs to be bridged</td><td>680R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog 0-5V</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-50uA DC ammeter</td><td>None</td><td>TBD</td><td>TBD</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-1.0mA DC ammeter</td><td>All built-in resistors, caps etc, if any, must be removed. The meter's input terminals must be directly connected to the meter's coil. (My "NOS" sample was configured this way when I got it, but given its 50+ years of age it could as well be that it was modified at some point.)</td><td>470R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog (0-5V)</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-50mA DC ammeter</td><td>Internal coil resistor (looks like wire wrapped around paper) in the rear, close to the bottom, needs to be removed: Open the meter, remove the face and just cut the two blank wires leading from the terminals towards the center, the coil resistor will fall out then (be sure to bend down the remaining stubs so that they don't touch anything), the other resistor can remain.</td><td>0R/1k0</td><td>Generic Analog (0-5V)</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-1.0mA DC ammeter</td><td>All built-in resistors, caps etc, if any, must be removed. The meter's input terminals must be directly connected to the meter's coil. (My "NOS" sample was configured this way when I got it, but given its 50+ years of age it could as well be that it was modified at some point.)</td><td>470R/4k7</td><td>Generic Analog 0-5V</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson model 29 0-50mA DC ammeter</td><td>Internal coil resistor (looks like wire wrapped around paper) in the rear, close to the bottom, needs to be removed: Open the meter, remove the face and just cut the two blank wires leading from the terminals towards the center, the coil resistor will fall out then (be sure to bend down the remaining stubs so that they don't touch anything), the other resistor can remain.</td><td>0R/1k0</td><td>Generic Analog 0-5V</td></tr>
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<tr><td>Simpson models 49, 142 VU meters</td><td>None</td><td>330R/3k3</td><td>Standard VU-Meter</td></tr>
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</table>
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CircuitSetup-produced boards have pre-installed trimpots (trimmer potentiometers). In order to adjust those for your very gauges, proceed as follows, for each meter:
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- Remove all built-in resistors, caps etc from the meter. The meter's input terminals must be directly connected to the meter's coil.
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- Remove all built-in resistors, caps etc from the meter. The meter's input terminals must be directly connected to the meter's coil. **Note**: The trimpots allow for a total resistance of between 2k and 6k for the Phaostron gauges, and between 10k+20R and 60k+20R for the Roentgens gauge. This covers nearly all meters I have tested. However: If your required resistance is beyond that, you will need to either replace the additional THT resistor on the board (R3, R2 for the Phaostron gauges, R6 for the Roentgens) or add another resistor elsewhere (eg. inside the meter).
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- Check that the trimpot for the meter [purple_3, purple_1, purple_5] is at its maximum resistance; turn it until either you hear a "click" or the screw blocks.
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- Connect the meter to the Control Board.
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- Power up; after the startup-sequence, hold the "Time Travel" button for 5 seconds.

README.md

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- [Home Assistant](#home-assistant--mqtt) (MQTT) support
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- built-in OTA installer for firmware updates and audio files
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>This [repository](https://dg.out-a-ti.me) is the upstream source for CircuitSetup's releases. The only difference is that both code and documentation [here](https://dg.out-a-ti.me) might be ahead in development.
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## Firmware Installation
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If a previous version of the Dash Gauges firmware is installed on your device's ESP32, you can update easily using the pre-compiled binary. Enter the [Config Portal](#the-config-portal), click on "Update" and select the pre-compiled binary file provided in this repository ([install/dashgauges-A10001986.ino.nodemcu-32s.bin](https://github.com/realA10001986/Dash-Gauges/blob/main/install/dashgauges-A10001986.ino.nodemcu-32s.bin)) in the top file selector.
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If a previous version of the Dash Gauges firmware is installed on your device's ESP32, you can update easily using the pre-compiled binary. Enter the [Config Portal](#the-config-portal), click on *Update*, select the pre-compiled binary file ("xxx.bin") provided in the Release package, and click on *Update*.
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If you are using a fresh ESP32 board, please see [dashgauges-A10001986.ino](https://github.com/realA10001986/Dash-Gauges/blob/main/dashgauges-A10001986/dashgauges-A10001986.ino) for detailed build and upload information, or, if you don't want to deal with source code, compilers and all that nerd stuff, go [here](https://install.out-a-ti.me) and follow the instructions.
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*Important: After a firmware update, the "empty" light might blink for short while after reboot. Do NOT unplug the device during this time.*
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*After a firmware update, the "empty" light might blink for short while after reboot. Do NOT unplug the device during this time.*
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### Sound-pack installation
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The firmware comes with a sound-pack which needs to be installed separately. The sound-pack is not updated as often as the firmware itself. If you have previously installed the latest version of the sound-pack, you normally don't have to re-install it when you update the firmware. Only if the "Empty" LED signals "SOS" (three short blinks, three long blinks, three short blinks) during boot, a re-installation/update is needed.
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The first step is to download "install/sound-pack-dgXX.zip" and extract it. It contains one file named "DGA.bin".
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The first step is to extract "sound-pack-dgXX.zip" (which is included in the Release package). It contains one file, named "DGA.bin".
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Next, head to the [Config Portal](#the-config-portal), click on *Update*, select the "DGA.bin" file in the bottom file selector and click on *Upload*.
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install/README.md

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This folder holds all files necessary for immediate installation on your Dash Gauges. Here you'll find
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- a binary of the current firmware, ready for upload to the device;
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- the latest audio data
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- a binary of the current firmware, ready for upload to the device ("xxx.bin");
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- the latest matching sound-pack ("sound-pack-dgXX.zip")
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## Firmware Installation
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If a previous version of the Dash Gauges firmware is installed on your device's ESP32, you can update easily using the pre-compiled binary. Enter the Config Portal, click on "Update" and select the pre-compiled binary file provided in this repository ([install/dashgauges-A10001986.ino.nodemcu-32s.bin](https://github.com/realA10001986/Dash-Gauges/blob/main/install/dashgauges-A10001986.ino.nodemcu-32s.bin)) in the top file selector and click *Update*.
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If you are using a fresh ESP32 board, please see [dashgauges-A10001986.ino](https://github.com/realA10001986/Dash-Gauges/blob/main/dashgauges-A10001986/dashgauges-A10001986.ino) for detailed build and upload information, or, if you don't want to deal with source code, compilers and all that nerd stuff, go [here](https://install.out-a-ti.me) and follow the instructions.
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*Important: After a firmware update, the "empty" LED might blink for short while after reboot. Do NOT unplug the device during this time.*
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## Sound-pack installation
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The sound-pack is not updated as often as the firmware itself. If you have previously installed the latest version of the sound-pack, you normally don't have to re-install it when you update the firmware. Only if the "Empty" LED signals "SOS" (three short blinks, three long blinks, three short blicks) during boot, a re-installation/update is needed.
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The first step is to download "install/sound-pack-dgXX.zip" and extract it. It contains one file named "DGA.bin".
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Then there are two alternative ways to proceed. Note that both methods *require an SD card*.
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1) Through the Config Portal. Click on *Update*, select the "DGA.bin" file in the bottom file selector and click *Upload*.
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2) Via SD card:
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- Copy "DGA.bin" to the root directory of of a FAT32 formatted SD card;
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- power down the Dash Gauges,
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- insert this SD card into the slot and
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- power up the Dash Gauges; the audio data will be installed automatically.
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See also [here](https://github.com/realA10001986/Dash-Gauges/blob/main/README.md#sound-pack-installation).
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For installation instructions, see [here](../README.md#firmware-installation).

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