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First off: welcome to the project, Darren! I'll explain the way I've set up things, which will cover your questions - and points at which you can do things differently. I've also taken some pictures of my "M5StickC Plus Spectrum" gear, which I will embed into my answer. I'll start with some bad news first: there is basically no way to get going with this without some level of "wire work". It may be possible to dodge soldering, but I always end up doing it for some part of the job, anyway. Next, I'll include a picture of the whole kit-in-parts, laid out on my dinner table: From the (top) left to the (bottom) right, this shows:
The latter point is one of the areas where you can choose a different approach. If you look at the pinouts of one of the matrices' 3-pin female connectors (which are of the JST SM kind, if I'm not mistaken), you can see it has 5V, ground and DIN (data in) cables. It's possible to power the matrices using these 5V and ground cables; the power will also be fed through to connected matrices via the 3-pin link-up. If you choose to go that way, make sure the wires in the separate 2-wire power cables in the middle of the matrices don't touch each other in any way, as you'll cause a short that may actually damage things. As I use the separate 5V cables to power the matrices, I do not use the power cables in the JST SM connectors. That's why the connector I use to link the matrices to the M5StickC Spectrum only uses the one pin (the middle one) for the data line: This setup also basically guarantees I don't accidentally power the matrices via the M5StickC Plus, and potentially indirectly the USB port of my computer. What is very important regardless of what route you use to get power to the matrices and the M5StickC Plus, is that they share a common ground (i.e., the ground wires to all power connectors are linked, one way or another). The data line brings me to the wire thingy. You've seen the barrel connector for power and the data line connector, which is strictly speaking all you need for the matrices to work. I've also added an IR receiver, which looks like this: At the other end of the wires is the single-row, 8-pin header that connects to one side of the M5StickC Plus: From top to bottom in the picture, matching the indications on the back of the M5StickC Plus with the female pin header to the right:
In principle, you can use different G-pins for the data lines, but this pinout matches the definitions in the code for the M5StickC Plus Spectrum project. That means that if you stick to using G26 (LED data) and G25 (IR receiver data), you don't have to change the code for the whole thing to work. Which concludes my tour of the gear, and leaves two questions open:
Some key things to keep in mind:
I hope this helps! |
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I think the 2.5mm splitters probably don't exist, which is why I ended up going with 2.1mm as well. I wouldn't worry about the splitter not being able to handle 40W of power. It's less than 2/3rds of the power a lightweight laptop charger provides, and those from reputable brands come with pretty flimsy-looking cables, sometimes. All in all, you're probably best off just buying a 2.5mm to 2.1mm barrel adapter, and go with 2.1mm splitters and plugs further down the line. |
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So these are the LED matrices - https://www.amazon.co.uk/BTF-LIGHTING-Individual-Addressable-Flexible-Controllers/dp/B088K1JH6X?th=1 It says on the product info: Power:0.1W But if we're splitting the power ways four ways from the 40W supply, will each LED matrix get enough? How does the splitter work? What gets split voltage, amps etc? It says Through Current: Main line up to 5Amp, branch Line up to 2Amp at 12V DC or below. Would that be the right one? Thanks, |
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Btw, I'm just trying to learn and understand with my questions. On a side note on Brexit, I was never for Brexit, I voted to remain. I always thought (and still do) that Brexit was the most stupid and self-harming thing the UK has even done. I've said for a long time that it was like people who can't read burning down your library. I'd rejoin immediately if we could. Unfortunately, politics in the UK is a corrupt cesspit. |
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Well, that would save you the barrel adapter indeed. The splitter you linked to earlier looked fine to me too.
I understand, and that's perfectly fine. Truth be told, I'm much better at the software side of things myself. And at the software side, I've spent enough hours on this project to enjoy knowing people are actually using it. If I can help with that then I'm happy to. But at the hardware end this is about as far as I can take you.
If my little comment sounded like an accusation then please know I did not mean it like that at all. I was just reflecting on the fact that I now have to take my full passport and go through passport control twice, for what's still a 45 minute flight to a neighbouring country in Europe. Not to mention the insane complexity that's been added to sending or receiving anything across just 90 miles of water. I know online sellers in the UK selling hard-to-find (retro) tech (you guys have some amazing cottage industry in that area) who just gave up on shipping to the continent. But hey, that's democracy for you sometimes. And we're not immune to that in the Netherlands either... |
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I'd started to type, but Rutger's answer is so complete that I'll just
delete most of mine. (Editor's note ...then I fell back asleep while
writing this anyway. :-) ) Note that some of his wiring problems are harder
than yours because he's using three panels and including the IR receiver
which isn't strictly necessary unless you're including the remote. (I'll
give a nod to KY-022 and more common wiring than his hand-made TO-92
package if you're shopping instead of scavenging, but the parts are all the
same.)
The keys to remember are:
1) We're used to thinking that LEDs don't take much power, but when you
multiply them by 256 (what's in your panel) it can be a lot. In this case,
the math works to 256 (# of LED) * .06W (power of each bulb at full
brightness - which becomes approximately the brightness - and temperature -
of the sun and thus really is a worst case) = 15.36W. As perspective, most
computers are putting between 0.5W and 0.9W of power out on the USB jack.
This is why you need an external power supply.
2) Triple check polarity (+/red goes to like and -/black) goes to like. Get
this wrong once and things are almost certain to be damaged.
3) Triple check voltage. Don't try a 12V supply and think that 12 is only a
little more than 5. Again, there can be damage (including to your computer
if you really get it wrong)
4) The ground of your power supply *has* to also be connected to the ground
of your controller. It's probably better (mandatory for configurations > 5,
which isn't what you're working with)for the high side (red, or positive)
to not be connected to the computer/controller just to keep the power
circuit separate from the data circuit. He said this, but so many people
bozo it (and the symptoms are so totally weird, like the panel only working
when you put your hand NEAR it...) that I'm saying it again.
Re-reading his response, we see that we both said to triple check some
things. Getting those wrong can result in shorts wisps of smoke - some
small, some enough to sink up a room, but all enough to turn this into an
expensive hobby.
At the risk of some crass commercialism, I'll add that Adafruit, one of the
big names in the 'maker' (hobbyists of electronics, 3d printing, other
nerdery) business is Adafruit and they have a good mini-book on Neopixels
<https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/the-magic-of-neopixels>,
their trademarked name for the WS-2812 style bulbs that's central to this
style of lighting. I'm normally a big fan of supporting educational
material with my voting dollars, but in their case, that love is
challenged. ($85 for that panel you're holding? Come on!)
Other than the details on this picture being wrong and their advice for
additional inline resistors and filtering caps being at least ten years out
of date, I'll say that this picture is a reasonable depiction they have one
picture <https://learn.adafruit.com/assets/30892> that describes the above
pretty well. Other than the type of strip not matching, the controller
being different, and the need for limiting resistor and filtering cap not
really applying (so ... every detail :-|) it depicts the above advice
pretty well with the external power/LED circuit being complete separate
than the computer/controller power and data circuit. So use that as a
high-level "this is what Im making" guide and follow Rutger's excellent
guide of the detail, including his implicit shopping advice that it's
better to just pick one size of connector (5521 is more common) and use it
consistently in all your shopping because converting is an extra expense
and grief you don't need. Their best practices
<https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/best-practices>
page is another byte of sugar (more calories than the earlier pages in that
book, which are a commercial - which is, itself OK). I'll admit that I've
finally taken their "don't hot plug" advice to heart after losing two
controller and two strips in one afternoon because I'm a slow learner some
days. Those 24V strips are brutal when the ground pin makes contact LAST
because the back voltage on the data pin dumps 24V into your 3.3V-tolerant
output. It was an expensive day. Bummer. Some of their advice, like the
inline resistor to reduce ringing (probably more so on 5V installations)
the strict need for a line driver on 3.3v boards, like all the ESPs (World
Semi changed the specs on these years ago, so it's way less true than it
used to be ... unless you're running the panels far away from the
controller, so you need a little 'oomph'.) are dated. So while I generally
agree with their guidance, some is a bit dated or conditional. There's no
shortage of tutorials on the web on this topic, though. Theirs is just well
written, though dated. (And very much a sales pitch...)
It sounds you're a bit new to electronics, but the electronics part of this
isn't really TOO hard. We don't kid about the wisps of smoke, but the
voltage is small enough to not be dangerous on its own if you mess up -
just expensive. :-) DO pay attention to temperatures of things. For
example, if you run LED strips while coiled up, for example, they get hot
fast. If you're lucky, you'll smell the plastic melting before the LEDs
die. If you're running your 16x16 panel with lots o pixels brightl for very
long, it can get hot. Similarly, be sure to not run it while covered up to
allow those LEDs to ventilate.
Overall, this is a fun hobby. Take some time up front to learn about the
involved science. The programming and application of this stuff is pretty
fun, too.
Welcome, and have a great time!
RJL
…On Mon, Jul 1, 2024 at 6:12 AM Rutger van Bergen ***@***.***> wrote:
First off: welcome to the project, Darren!
I'll explain the way I've set up things, which will cover your questions -
and points at which you can do things differently. I've also taken some
pictures of my "M5StickC Plus Spectrum" gear, which I will embed into my
answer.
I'll start with some bad news first: there is basically no way to get
going with this without some level of "wire work". It may be *possible*
to dodge soldering, but I always end up doing it for some part of the job,
anyway.
Next, I'll include a picture of the whole kit-in-parts, laid out on my
dinner table:
20240701_114019.Large.jpg (view on web)
<https://github.com/PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/assets/10425218/20d2750a-edf2-40e0-8a60-2fae0a8fffad>
From the (top) left to the (bottom) right, this shows:
1.
A 5V/8A hence 40W power brick. I've found that is more than enough to
power the 3 16x16 matrices and the M5StickC Plus up to the point that the
LEDs burn so bright it hurts the eyes when running at full brightness. This
is part of the answer to your first question: you get a separate power
supply to hook up the matrices (and optionally M5StickC Plus, that being
the answer to your second question) to.
2.
A splitter cable to split up the 5V output of the power supply's
barrel connector into a handful of barrel connectors, that can be hooked up
to the individual matrices and (in my case) the M5StickC Plus. I've
included a more detailed picture of it here:
20240701_114259.Large.jpg (view on web)
<https://github.com/PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/assets/10425218/1399d958-75fd-4aeb-b0db-3c0208ae9467>
What this shows is that one possible catch is the exact size of the
power barrel connectors involved. In my case, the (male) barrel connector
of the power brick has a thicker core (2.5mm) than the (female) connectors
I use for the matrices and the M5StickC Plus (2.1mm), which is why the
splitter cable has an adapter connected at the power supply side.
3.
A "wire thingy" with attachments. I'll come back to that one later.
4.
The three 16x16 matrices. As you can see, they are connected to each
other using the 3-pin connectors at either side of each matrix. Also, I've
attached (female) barrel connectors to each of the matrices, using the
5V/ground cables coming out at the top of the matrices.
I think this is a good time to show a close-up of the barrel
connectors in question:
20240701_114226.Large.jpg (view on web)
<https://github.com/PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/assets/10425218/5df13ce7-b43c-4411-952e-18ee0fbae622>
This picture actually shows the barrel connector for the M5StickC Plus
at the left, and one for one of the matrices to the right. As you can see,
I did not solder these; I got some you can screw on instead.
The latter point is one of the areas where you can choose a different
approach. If you look at the pinouts of one of the matrices' 3-pin female
connectors (which are of the JST SM kind, if I'm not mistaken), you can see
it has 5V, ground and DIN (data in) cables. It's possible to power the
matrices using these 5V and ground cables; the power will also be fed
through to connected matrices via the 3-pin link-up. If you choose to go
that way, make sure the wires in the separate 2-wire power cables in the
middle of the matrices don't touch each other in any way, as you'll cause a
short that may actually damage things.
As I use the separate 5V cables to power the matrices, I do not use the
power cables in the JST SM connectors. That's why the connector I use to
link the matrices to the M5StickC Spectrum only uses the one pin (the
middle one) for the data line:
20240701_114241.Large.jpg (view on web)
<https://github.com/PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/assets/10425218/3e3141c1-56cd-4181-975a-2adb3c1f30e1>
What is very important regardless of what route you use to get power to
the matrices and the M5StickC Plus, is that they have a common ground
(i.e., the ground wires to all power connectors are linked, one way or
another).
The data line brings me to the wire thingy. You've seen the barrel
connector for power and the data line connector, which is strictly speaking
all you need for the matrices to work. I've also added an IR receiver,
which looks like this:
20240701_114154.Large.jpg (view on web)
<https://github.com/PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/assets/10425218/8f227ef9-d67c-41ce-a8f3-228b4c4a475a>
At the other end of the wires is the single-row, 8-pin header that
connects to one side of the M5StickC Plus:
20240701_114139.Large.jpg (view on web)
<https://github.com/PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/assets/10425218/9cf883c2-5f3a-4e00-826f-81c995048ddf>
From top to bottom in the picture, matching the indications on the back of
the M5StickC Plus with the female pin header to the right:
1. Ground (GND on the device). These wires connect to the ground pin
of the power barrel connector and the ground pin of the IR receiver. (They
should really be black, but I didn't have any when I put this together.)
2. Not connected (5V out on the M5StickC Plus)
3. Data line for the matrices (G26 on the M5StickC Plus). This is the
wire connected to the middle pin of the JST SM connector I plug into the
left-most matrix (when the LEDS are facing upwards). This is the answer to
your last question.
4. Data line for the IR receiver (G36/G25 on the M5StickC Plus). This
wire connects to the data/signal pin of the IR receiver.
5. Not connected (G0 on the M5StickC Plus)
6. Not connected (BAT on the M5StickC Plus)
7. 3.3V for the IR receiver (3V3 out on the M5StickC Plus). This
connects to the V-in leg of the IR receiver.
8. 5V from the power supply (5V in on the M5StickC Plus). This
connects to the 5V pin of the power barrel connector.
In principle, you can use different G-pins for the data lines, but this
pinout matches the definitions in the code for the M5StickC Plus Spectrum
project. That means that if you stick to using G26 (LED data) and G25 (IR
receiver data), you don't have to change the code for the whole thing to
work.
Which concludes my tour of the gear, and leaves two questions open:
- Debug info: the serial console is a virtual console that gets routed
over the USB-C port on the M5StickC Plus. So, to watch it you have to hook
up the M5StickC Plus to your computer with a USB-C cable while it's running.
- USB switch: I didn't check this with Dave, but I'm guessing he means
a separately powered USB hub that provides some level of isolation between
the USB port of your computer and that of the M5StickC Plus. That makes
you'll blow a fuse in the USB hub if you do so, instead of in your computer.
Some key things to keep in mind:
- Use a separate 5V power supply for the matrices and the M5StickC
Plus. Don't forget to connect it to these devices before you plug in the
M5StickC Plus to your computer if the matrices are connected to the
M5StickC Plus. You'll know power is connected because the M5StickC Plus'
screen will show stuff and the LEDs will light up - if you have the
Spectrum project flashed onto your M5StickC Plus, of course.
- Triple-check your wiring. Both when you solder/clamp/... your setup
together AND when you plug things into each other. The 8-pin header that
goes into the M5StickC Plus is particularly easy to plug in the wrong way
around.
I hope this helps!
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Hi - thank you for your reply :-) I'm going to go through this a few times, I want to take it in properly and be careful and sure as I go. (I would like to keep soldering to a minimum!) Thank you, |
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I doubt there IS a registrar of PS companies, especially as there are
probably like six companies that make everything and just put each others'
names on them. In my own collection, I have products that absolutely ran
off the same assembly line, down to the same spelling mistakes etched in
plastic, with different names printed on that foil sticker thing and on the
nameplate. Company X calls Company Y and says "I need N zillion 12V, 8A
bricks with plug Z and pinout P". When you get into lands of little
regulations and very low cost, you can get some truly terrifying
combinations.
I think my favorite was included with an early purchase that was a USB-A
connector (the square kind that was on your PC 25+ years ago and has been
seen everywhere) but was labeled 12V - and a sticker with a picture of a PC
inside a circle with a slash. The 12V LED strip came with a "USB" cable
that mated to it. In this case, Company X knew that Company Y also made 12V
transformers and regulators, so they just had them put them in the USB case
as the lowest cost way to make a non-captive cable. In my house, that
sucker is quarrantined because it would be instant death for anything
plugged into it.
A reasonable check for anything that plugs into the wall in U.K. (all of
EU?) is the CE mark. (I'll note that the aforementioned terror of a power
supply PROBABLY had a CE mark, but I'm doubtful it was actually CE
tested[1].) That means that the product has been tested by one of the NRTL
(Nationally Recognized Testing Labs) for safety compliance. That doesn't
mean that you can't burn your house down with a can opener with a CE
certification, of course. It means that someone with a working knowledge of
a Big Dumb Book of Facts has examined the product to confirm things like
the wiring being physically anchored for pull resistance and not JUST
dangling by the electrical part, that a rod of a certain size has been
poked into all the openings and the product didn't catch fire (it can pop a
fuse or quit working), that power cords are of appropriate gauge for power
demand, and a hundred other things. In the U.S. primary the equivalent
certification agency is Underwriters Labs. This is why you'll see UL in a
circle on a lot of your stuff, I'm guessing. ETL exists, but I can't
remember which countries they cover. Zooming out a little on the answer,
Amazon actually checks such things for the consumer (They're too big to be
a litigant for selling products with electrical fire hazards...) and that
looks like a lovely power supply, similar to many here.
Do look and see what size of connector is on that barrel jack. COmmon sizes
are 5.5mm on the outside and the center pin being either 2.1 or 2.5mm,
which are annoyingly difficult to eyeball, as Rutger probably learned. :-)
If you're going to buy a bag of the little adapters like he pictured
(they're always black and green IME) be sure to get the size that matches
it, whatever it is. Otherwise, you'll be ordering an adapter.
... or cutting off the end and using wire nuts or those newfangled clippy
doodles <https://www.amazon.co.uk/wago-connectors/s?k=wago+connectors> for
quick, easy, surprisingly safe connections. That's one perfectly reasonable
way to avoid soldering at the very beginning. I'm usually pretty snobbish
about "easy" electrical solutions (for example, I screw romex to duplex
outlets and switches; I'm not a "back-stabber") but I actually find these
quite handy for lighting work and they're actually allowed in permanent
house wiring. The name brand ones are awesome, but your local hardware
store may have generics that are just fine for blinky lights.
He does have a good point that if you plan to mess with electrical stuff of
any kind - from testing the battery in your car to checking electrical
outlets in your home - a multimeter
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Multimeter/s?k=Digital+Multimeter> is a
great thing to own. Again, your local hardware/home supplies store may have
them. My fellow old people will remember when spending less than a car
payment on a meter was a waste of money. If you're an EE, there actually
ARE differences in a $1200 Fluke and a generic one, but about any of them
today will tell you if your power supply is broken, if this unmarked power
supply is 5V or 24V, if your outlet is live (I assume you know how to
outsmart those crazy outlets you have in the U.K.) or if the reason your
tea kettle isn't working is the switch or the coil. (There's not much else
to a tea kettle...) Even the < £10's will probably stay with you for
decades. I'd have a personal bend toward the autoranging ones for £20 that
include clips instead of just probes, but I'm a baller like that...and I
don't have to move my hands if the voltage is 21V isntead of 19 because it
"wraps around" and I'd have to move the switch like on the really low end
ones. But I wouldn't mock you, either.
You're in the U.K. Rutger is in NL and thinks Brexit was a shame. I agree,
but being from the U.S., I'm just going to shut the hell up about current
politics. :-) Let's talk about microcontrollers and pieces and parts
instead. More fun. Less bleeding.
RJL
[1] This isn't saying that, as an informed buyer, I'm above saving 90% for
electronics where I'm qualified to KNOW the safety issues. NOT buying
electronics components from Asia is a losing strategy because almost
everything comes from there anyway. It's just a matter if you're buying
from the top or the bottom of the food chain.
…On Mon, Jul 1, 2024 at 7:29 PM Rutger van Bergen ***@***.***> wrote:
You're welcome!
The power supply looks suitable to me, and the price is reasonable. I paid
20 euros for mine last year (which is a Leicke-branded one), which is close
enough. I have to add that I don't have a register of reliable power supply
brands; when it comes to low-voltage power supplies like these they tend to
come and go like mushrooms anyway.
I'm located in the Netherlands myself which is pretty close to the UK in
many respects (it's still a shame about Brexit, but I digress), and I'm
comfortable saying it shouldn't matter much for grounding etc. The main
thing is that the stuff you connect to the power supply (M5StickC Plus and
matrices) share a common ground, which is easy to achieve if they are
indeed all hooked up to the same power supply.
I'd buy the power supply, check the voltage output with a multimeter when
you get it (if you don't have a multimeter then do get one of those!), and
then check it doesn't get inappropriately hot when you have it plugged in
for a while with things actually drawing power from it - much to
@robertlipe <https://github.com/robertlipe>'s earlier point.
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Hi, Thanks for the reply. On these: Wagos It shows different ones -10x 221-2411,10x 221-412, 10x 221-413, 5x 221-415 - how do I know which ones I need? Thanks, |
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Continuing the extended "welcome to blinkies" discussion...
Just as a fun way to tinker with "electronics' without all the talk about
board destruction and fires (but small ones!) that Rutger and I keep
terrorizing you with, there's another somewhat fun approach to tinker, but
without actually buying tools and power supplies or learning to solder or,
honestly, even really knowing what you're doing. You can be ridiculously
"productive" just modifying code snippets from the web and pasting them
into place.
Wokwi.com provides a simulator that was originally for Arduino, but has
since added ESP32 (hey, like us!) and WS-2812 panels (hey, like yours!) and
a parent project to handle blinkies (hey, us, too!) that happens to be the
same one that we use internally. You can drag and drop wires around without
all that melting lead and risk of burning yourself. Power is both infinite
and safe, so it's easy to develop, but also easy to develop ... bad
habits, such as one in what I'm about to show you.
https://wokwi.com/projects/402288069377610753
Is an ESP32 + a 16px ring. (For some reason, the 16x16 panels aren't
available, but I see them in other projects. Weird...) The available
libraries right now are a bit of a mess, with it pushing
Arduino-espressif32 3.0 when most things (including FastLED) aren't yet
compatible with 3.0. But you can hopefully see the power of fast
prototyping. You don't have to really even set up your own development
environment for code (just do "arduino stuff" in that left panel).
Likewise, you don't have to set up your electronics environment to
experiment with hardware. You literally can add components, drag and drop
wire ends, move things around to satisfy a layout before routing a board,
etc. In thi sexample, you can see some leftovers of another project, but
they happen to be the same leftovers that Rutger showed in a physical
version. The IR hookup would work (I think) if I were motivated to
copy/paste in the code to recognize IR decoder signals but for now, I just
left them there as an example.
The footnote on "infinite power" is that it can make you lazy. Here, for
example, I'm powering a 16-element ring (960mA at full brightness) from the
USB connection on the board. USB-A doesn't promise anything above 500. USB
3 (the blue ones) promise at least 900mA but you can see you're on the
hairy edge, especially since the controller itself can pull about the same
when booting or using the radios. If I were building this in the 3D world,
I'd use external power (as Rutger and I have discussed at length) but for
draggy-droppy imaginary hardware, we don't have to care. Want to copy and
paste ten rings and modify NUM_LEDS to match? Knock yourself out! Just
don't take a working prototype too literally when converting it to molten
lead and copper.
Also note that the code on tis example is "raw" FastLED and not the refined
NightDriver code. When writing effects, it's perfectly reasonable to
prototype in the emulator with fast reload and later convert the code to
NightDriverLED APIs. It's not an UNreasonable development environment if
you're building effects, for example.
In some world, I'd like to hook up some kind of automated test fixture for
testing PRs to make Rutger's life a little easier. Attaching a debugger
<https://docs.wokwi.com/gdb-debugging> and running instrumented builds is
way easier than JTAG debugging on the pre-2020 Espressifs. Faking networking
<https://docs.wokwi.com/guides/esp32-wifi> is possible so we could automate
testing our REST API if we were suitably motivated.
I haven't tried squirting a full NIghtDriver LED (either via source or
binary - my guess is that source would be impractical) into it, but I use
the core emulator for double-checking before I commit to even perfboard and
it's super handy for just visually tweaking effects. You can program in C,
C++, Arduino-ese, Python <https://docs.wokwi.com/guides/micropython>SDC, or
pretty much whatever.
It's another tool for the toolbox of our readers and future contributors.
It's freemium <https://docs.wokwi.com/getting-started/wokwi-club> with a
pretty generous free level.
RJL
…On Mon, Jul 1, 2024 at 11:23 PM Robert Lipe ***@***.***> wrote:
I doubt there IS a registrar of PS companies, especially as there are
probably like six companies that make everything and just put each others'
names on them. In my own collection, I have products that absolutely ran
off the same assembly line, down to the same spelling mistakes etched in
plastic, with different names printed on that foil sticker thing and on the
nameplate. Company X calls Company Y and says "I need N zillion 12V, 8A
bricks with plug Z and pinout P". When you get into lands of little
regulations and very low cost, you can get some truly terrifying
combinations.
I think my favorite was included with an early purchase that was a USB-A
connector (the square kind that was on your PC 25+ years ago and has been
seen everywhere) but was labeled 12V - and a sticker with a picture of a PC
inside a circle with a slash. The 12V LED strip came with a "USB" cable
that mated to it. In this case, Company X knew that Company Y also made 12V
transformers and regulators, so they just had them put them in the USB case
as the lowest cost way to make a non-captive cable. In my house, that
sucker is quarrantined because it would be instant death for anything
plugged into it.
A reasonable check for anything that plugs into the wall in U.K. (all of
EU?) is the CE mark. (I'll note that the aforementioned terror of a power
supply PROBABLY had a CE mark, but I'm doubtful it was actually CE
tested[1].) That means that the product has been tested by one of the NRTL
(Nationally Recognized Testing Labs) for safety compliance. That doesn't
mean that you can't burn your house down with a can opener with a CE
certification, of course. It means that someone with a working knowledge of
a Big Dumb Book of Facts has examined the product to confirm things like
the wiring being physically anchored for pull resistance and not JUST
dangling by the electrical part, that a rod of a certain size has been
poked into all the openings and the product didn't catch fire (it can pop a
fuse or quit working), that power cords are of appropriate gauge for power
demand, and a hundred other things. In the U.S. primary the equivalent
certification agency is Underwriters Labs. This is why you'll see UL in a
circle on a lot of your stuff, I'm guessing. ETL exists, but I can't
remember which countries they cover. Zooming out a little on the answer,
Amazon actually checks such things for the consumer (They're too big to be
a litigant for selling products with electrical fire hazards...) and that
looks like a lovely power supply, similar to many here.
Do look and see what size of connector is on that barrel jack. COmmon
sizes are 5.5mm on the outside and the center pin being either 2.1 or
2.5mm, which are annoyingly difficult to eyeball, as Rutger probably
learned. :-) If you're going to buy a bag of the little adapters like he
pictured (they're always black and green IME) be sure to get the size that
matches it, whatever it is. Otherwise, you'll be ordering an adapter.
... or cutting off the end and using wire nuts or those newfangled clippy
doodles <https://www.amazon.co.uk/wago-connectors/s?k=wago+connectors> for
quick, easy, surprisingly safe connections. That's one perfectly reasonable
way to avoid soldering at the very beginning. I'm usually pretty snobbish
about "easy" electrical solutions (for example, I screw romex to duplex
outlets and switches; I'm not a "back-stabber") but I actually find these
quite handy for lighting work and they're actually allowed in permanent
house wiring. The name brand ones are awesome, but your local hardware
store may have generics that are just fine for blinky lights.
He does have a good point that if you plan to mess with electrical stuff
of any kind - from testing the battery in your car to checking electrical
outlets in your home - a multimeter
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Multimeter/s?k=Digital+Multimeter> is a
great thing to own. Again, your local hardware/home supplies store may have
them. My fellow old people will remember when spending less than a car
payment on a meter was a waste of money. If you're an EE, there actually
ARE differences in a $1200 Fluke and a generic one, but about any of them
today will tell you if your power supply is broken, if this unmarked power
supply is 5V or 24V, if your outlet is live (I assume you know how to
outsmart those crazy outlets you have in the U.K.) or if the reason your
tea kettle isn't working is the switch or the coil. (There's not much else
to a tea kettle...) Even the < £10's will probably stay with you for
decades. I'd have a personal bend toward the autoranging ones for £20 that
include clips instead of just probes, but I'm a baller like that...and I
don't have to move my hands if the voltage is 21V isntead of 19 because it
"wraps around" and I'd have to move the switch like on the really low end
ones. But I wouldn't mock you, either.
You're in the U.K. Rutger is in NL and thinks Brexit was a shame. I agree,
but being from the U.S., I'm just going to shut the hell up about current
politics. :-) Let's talk about microcontrollers and pieces and parts
instead. More fun. Less bleeding.
RJL
[1] This isn't saying that, as an informed buyer, I'm above saving 90% for
electronics where I'm qualified to KNOW the safety issues. NOT buying
electronics components from Asia is a losing strategy because almost
everything comes from there anyway. It's just a matter if you're buying
from the top or the bottom of the food chain.
On Mon, Jul 1, 2024 at 7:29 PM Rutger van Bergen ***@***.***>
wrote:
> You're welcome!
>
> The power supply looks suitable to me, and the price is reasonable. I
> paid 20 euros for mine last year (which is a Leicke-branded one), which is
> close enough. I have to add that I don't have a register of reliable power
> supply brands; when it comes to low-voltage power supplies like these they
> tend to come and go like mushrooms anyway.
>
> I'm located in the Netherlands myself which is pretty close to the UK in
> many respects (it's still a shame about Brexit, but I digress), and I'm
> comfortable saying it shouldn't matter much for grounding etc. The main
> thing is that the stuff you connect to the power supply (M5StickC Plus and
> matrices) share a common ground, which is easy to achieve if they are
> indeed all hooked up to the same power supply.
>
> I'd buy the power supply, check the voltage output with a multimeter when
> you get it (if you don't have a multimeter then do get one of those!), and
> then check it doesn't get inappropriately hot when you have it plugged in
> for a while with things actually drawing power from it - much to
> @robertlipe <https://github.com/robertlipe>'s earlier point.
>
> —
> Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
> <#637 (reply in thread)>,
> or unsubscribe
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> .
> You are receiving this because you were mentioned.Message ID:
> <PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/repo-discussions/637/comments/9930700
> @github.com>
>
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Ah. I fell asleep while writing that and missed some questions.
Lots of power supplies (especially ones that aren't targeting laptops) come
with the matching jack/adapter.
If you have only one panel/strip, I dont know why you need that splitter
thingy at all. (I don't own one...but I also have a big bench supply,
infinite alligator cables, and don't think twice about warming an iron.)
Oh. Maybe because I also stock the JST cables
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/fivekim-Female-Connector-WS2812B-WS2812/dp/B0868JB7XT/ref=sr_1_23?crid=2FYICF8JS45R7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._JX7Uw_LPIWcLrEx5mzIQAHrT5Tnu4svlauDSUWuBkMLzERMGCTUGqdh8TDHTl82eC34qZ1QGnu4zZfcGr7eUE2KOXD8mJyDPQLR2ktt4msVUETH7TVlKUSDty75iaPp-w-G2khBhskrl5-XJAB8K9qSHxIDwXbgHyV3Kp5ctKMmrV-7z49lm7a_1Zn6PR9BPyna3DocbyGGwPt46h5MWKgufbJzduZUxPzifXjaL027M1SfzMaz4AVJyRr6J3qP9vOrHv8-wS_s42-Y2jr_baYwP3AkbH52aZgDkEx1Mqg.HT9LjzE08ee_Cz_z_ugIacW-ZIv7abC_vww7BvvPEBk&dib_tag=se&keywords=jst+connectors+3+pin+led+strip&qid=1719943149&sprefix=jst+connectors+3+pin+led+st%2Caps%2C506&sr=8-23>
by
the dozens. Since I use strips that might be 12 or even 24V, I very much
treat powering the LEDs and powering the controller as different pieces of
business. Phone chargers to power controllers are plentiful.
The splitters are usually meant for things like security cameras, which
take way less than the ~45W in question by three panels. That said, I'd
probably share Rutger's wisdom to not worry about it too much. In
electronics, it's important to know where the limits ARE, but as a very
practical matter, one of those panels with all pixels on full brightness
for any length of time will give you a sunburn and reduce your retinas to
ash. Well, maybe not quite but the reality is that most sane configurations
only have some of the pixels lit and only a few (by percentages) at a time
and most at less than full brightness.
On the connectors, I'll admit that I tried to pick the common name/brand
that (think is) popular in Germany/Switzerland/U.K. (Lots of my YouTubers
are European....) Like Xerox, Google, or Kleenex, the brand has become
inseparable from the product. (BigClive or The Guy With The Swiss Accent
pronounce the "W" as a "V".) I use generics and have an assortment of a
couple hundred. Looking at that page, it'd be hard to say that Wago brand
is worth 3x selliner
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connectors-Electrical-Terminal-Stranded-Flexible/dp/B09ZP2Z337/ref=sr_1_49?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Z12elENe67_6-8cqSi-l92UNDurbTLUjweeYcr2z-br24owZFtUZfEYyE-5DitsESeGDvilzbsQHoynZGAX6uqWUlBzcFNinz7LFdbwv_BAon6wsb9LMkqxOQWIpsOCx06ZSWI8t_DMKUdBf-TTbKFyIxzFXhvmNED9PDrSWrtb_aJ5UUs9cFrM1nXRkyUT38d13Q7swzEbpg4gMc2ekDwpycReMKa802ncetmMQ4EaOMdvlElsHO1JHqUccE6-dKswH5bqSp9Cn0WaBLEony6b04MubXI4xwNC3Q2BD5EI.bXHflAR0UL8jdvQA95IZjB4r5duI-FuQ0qsuv1vAGnI&dib_tag=se&keywords=wago+connectors&qid=1719942534&sr=8-49>
(I
can't see the price) or flintronics
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/flintronic-Lever-Nut-Connector-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B09XJZ8TRB/ref=sr_1_48?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Z12elENe67_6-8cqSi-l92UNDurbTLUjweeYcr2z-br24owZFtUZfEYyE-5DitsESeGDvilzbsQHoynZGAX6uqWUlBzcFNinz7LFdbwv_BAon6wsb9LMkqxOQWIpsOCx06ZSWI8t_DMKUdBf-TTbKFyIxzFXhvmNED9PDrSWrtb_aJ5UUs9cFrM1nXRkyUT38d13Q7swzEbpg4gMc2ekDwpycReMKa802ncetmMQ4EaOMdvlElsHO1JHqUccE6-dKswH5bqSp9Cn0WaBLEony6b04MubXI4xwNC3Q2BD5EI.bXHflAR0UL8jdvQA95IZjB4r5duI-FuQ0qsuv1vAGnI&dib_tag=se&keywords=wagohttps://www.amazon.co.uk/flintronic-Lever-Nut-Connector-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B09XJZ8TRB/ref=sr_1_48?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Z12elENe67_6-8cqSi-l92UNDurbTLUjweeYcr2z-br24owZFtUZfEYyE-5DitsESeGDvilzbsQHoynZGAX6uqWUlBzcFNinz7LFdbwv_BAon6wsb9LMkqxOQWIpsOCx06ZSWI8t_DMKUdBf-TTbKFyIxzFXhvmNED9PDrSWrtb_aJ5UUs9cFrM1nXRkyUT38d13Q7swzEbpg4gMc2ekDwpycReMKa802ncetmMQ4EaOMdvlElsHO1JHqUccE6-dKswH5bqSp9Cn0WaBLEony6b04MubXI4xwNC3Q2BD5EI.bXHflAR0UL8jdvQA95IZjB4r5duI-FuQ0qsuv1vAGnI&dib_tag=se&keywords=wago+connectors&qid=1719942534&sr=8-48+connectors&qid=1719942534&sr=8-48>
.
For lighting, I use the splices (1:1) by the ton. They slide together and
lock so if you need 3:3 you can hook them together at they become a wago
instead of an atom. The ones that seliner describes as having multiple
"ports" are good for hooking multiple wires together, such as if you were
manually making a ("butt") splice style connectino to power multiple
panels. There are exotic ones like "five in, fifteen out
<https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805937260346.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.6774NgiWNgiWEs&algo_pvid=b2e2cf79-c247-4dbf-823f-b826e299168e&aem_p4p_detail=202407021122218583288095458700000712850&algo_exp_id=b2e2cf79-c247-4dbf-823f-b826e299168e-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%216.78%214.41%21%21%2149.30%2132.04%21%402103252b17199445414526300e0212%2112000035859003712%21sea%21US%212780316381%21&curPageLogUid=9ArX60T0DyE2&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202407021122218583288095458700000712850_1>"
that might be useful if you're building entertainment displays or
something, but I've never missed having such a thing in the lab or the
simple installations I've made.
These are certainly not required. You just mentioned an aversion to
soldering and these really are a good alternative to old-school wire nuts
(that kink and destroy the stranded wires that are common in our world) and
are really fast and safe for just clicking stuff together. Apparently like
Rutger, I'm really big on making cables and fixtures for myself so I know
my jigs are safe, reliable, and easy. I hate debugging something to find
that a pair of jankily twisted wires came undone. See the next post for
photos of two such examples to make my life easier.
It's weird to use Amazon.co.uk links since I'm pretty sure that I don't see
the same thing you see.. I's at least a common language/group of pictures,
even if you choose to shop at Pimoroni or Aliexpress or one of the other
places I mentioned. Walking into a hardware store knowing what Wagos look
like simplifies that visit.
You're IR LED-curious. A handy name to know is ky-022
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=ky-022&crid=33NPT5YM2MRKC&sprefix=wago+connectors%2Caps%2C2760&ref=nb_sb_noss_1>,
the common "street name" for the diode mentioned (it's 3.3 or 5v) on a
board with a few stabilizing passives. They tend to be present in even the
small sensor assortments
<https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801785841454.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.27.21f75bbfVqXOqc&algo_pvid=1a4eaa41-5a55-46a6-b71e-3a4457c08b2f&algo_exp_id=1a4eaa41-5a55-46a6-b71e-3a4457c08b2f-13&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2111.00%216.82%21%21%2111.00%216.82%21%402101c9ac17199456317614473e3ee7%2112000018274971403%21sea%21US%212780316381%21&curPageLogUid=3Dg35guL2tQn&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A>that
you'll probably want if you plan to really get into developing with
ESP32-style microcontrollers. Some of those assortments include the remote
you'll also inevitably want.
I'm self-taught and worked from home for decades. I kept seeing them in
videos, but it took me forever to learn what dupont wires
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=dupont+cables&crid=3Q5T00JQIZ74V&sprefix=dupont+cables%2Caps%2C1263&ref=nb_sb_noss_1>
are called. Now you know. :-) Knowing their name is another life-changer in
small digital electronics. These wires slip right into/onto all the little
rows of pins that you see everywhere; again, without soldering.
This link isn't quite right, but I have to run. Since you can get these
jacks in either 5521
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/LightingWill-Barrel-Connector-Adapter-Security-5Pair-Female-Male-DC-adaptor/dp/B077YJTV15/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1LS2DA107HI8P&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.-MP9P5QbmhCGc8jrjd4ROLxlMqMYmLZ0jTmYvuW-2nPl7AtW0jxfsZriV-FZ59UW3l4z4AxIFgsrVkctAVOJ0AeAAfJgaZ2Vy-2hKYD8K3ckWEYwfLo1IV5lHk0lAMVM4Rq26e96bhLjICN8vGYLaw_pVWWs1IFaUZilPhAH8rHuWTp1b5gEmacrjuDLkDhT0bcNidh-urqWX5S_ICxXG3lZ0FPmBITWOGNOid0QNrw.-XhmVYocRgK2KA3_wL8JbEpg3HSbWp9I4xvb0JJprhQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=5.5+2.5+5525+jack+screw+terminal&qid=1719946901&sprefix=5.5+2.5+5525+jack+screw+terminal%2Caps%2C285&sr=8-6>
or 5525
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/YSJJZRL-5-5x2-1-Connector-Security-5-5x2-1mm-Female/dp/B0C6F9555K/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2RNOC0R5PLIH1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.eQ37ZvFIORevGZBTqVw4PLu290kn0LvOC0r1ztPPoNtIipRfCljG4ZRlk98wC1jrXGcZSpjfRlge4SnIiyJtr4s-qDiM10RrCxxeNgwPO3KNnqiV8xUKm8RDKKmuACju1O5OBi9pl2ANlxs0JmEqzW4f32gw6xNPL3qNZiobhuBLyERaEZGuFIQf-QhuWgpmwSkVFWVOB5ckDOWpCFnLBBv_S9S82x0_GiICQ5GQzh0.ConJyGvHB-8Z841iG0I940DfMtiXebG4upsr3o15t5c&dib_tag=se&keywords=5.5+X+2.5mm+Barrel+Power+12V+Male+and+Female+DC+Jack+Power+Connector&qid=1719947071&sprefix=5.5+x+2.5mm+barrel+power+12v+male+and+female+dc+jack+power+connector%2Caps%2C718&sr=8-11>
and you control one end, why not just get the ones that match whatever
you're using? (Actually, that last link can be selected in either size....)
Photos in next post. I thnk the email gateway eats photos.
RJL
…On Tue, Jul 2, 2024 at 10:33 AM Rutger van Bergen ***@***.***> wrote:
I think the 2.5mm splitters probably don't exist, which is why I ended up
going with 2.1mm as well.
I wouldn't worry about the splitter not being able to handle 40W of power.
It's less than 2/3rds of the power a lightweight laptop charger provides,
and those from reputable brands come with pretty flimsy-looking cables,
sometimes.
All in all, you're probably best off just buying a 2.5mm to 2.1mm barrel
adapter, and go with 2.1mm splitters and plugs further down the line.
—
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
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5525 to 3pin. Data is brought to a ferrule for use in Wagos Screw terminals for esp boards. 3 jsr plugs. Power from banana or 5525. Screw terminals for power
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It's 3 x BTF-LIGHTING WS2812B ECO RGB Alloy Wires 5050SMD Individual Addressable 16X16 256 Pixels LED Matrix Flexible FPCB Full Color Works with K-1000C, SP107E,etc Controllers Image Video Text Display DC5V |
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I'm struggling to find all the connectors/adapters rated for the same voltage and amps here in the UK For example, there are these on Amazon UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/LightingWill-Barrel-Connector-Adapter-Security-10Pair-Female-Male-DC-adaptor/dp/B077YGV3F4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1CMTPLCB6IXU8&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.KrqIHO-2Uo-CTq_Xsum8PyYQ0TqFQ-RlEcMk5btSvvq86cak8xPzU2njgDdR-43ZFfp2s5yUWYO18_sZ2Am-sZqH9EDX2r3pJCgzKSzGR_iJwjrbiW0s3ZWFM9nakztIkprL1NdWZnsktIvAhRpdAcJ6WVzzEQK2VU3p6Gfn0uBVDrr7rTVgu8yC1e5dIBQvXIkTnFGNYSXA3Tz3m8nu9nhyBIJJQZqav227sKKxwCQ.aAOtwb_A4vMomd4Mf3VVlk46NqtaVeVvoBkSvAYfjMc&dib_tag=se&keywords=5v%2Bbarrel%2Bconnector&qid=1719989264&sprefix=5v%2Bbarrel%2Bcon%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 but they are 6A not 8A I'm unclear on the number of AC adapters I need for the 3 panels and the M5StickC Plus (I'll shorten this to m/c for micro controller). Do I need two separate AC adaptes or do I split the power from one between the three panels and the m/c, with just a data line from the m/c to the panel? Do I need to supply the DC splitter power to each matrix individually or just to the first one? Won't the daisy chained connectors also carry the current to each subsequent matrix? Thanks in advance, |
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My (by now pretty extensive) experience with this particular setup is that you can power the three 16x16 LED panels and the M5StickC Plus using one 40W (5V/8A) adapter. Using the "only data line" link between m/c and panels means you are sure that you're not trying to feed power to the panels from the m/c itself.
I think this partly relates to your observation that the connectors you found are 6A, not 8A. If you hook up a connector to each panel then you're splitting the power load of the three panels over three connectors, instead of one. That way you can be sure the power draw through each connector won't come close to the 6A they mention. I personally think you can still get away with using just one and have the power flow through the daisy-chained connectors between the panels, but I have not tried that setup myself. Cheers, |
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Just for completeness: as @robertlipe calculated earlier, the maximum power a 16x16 = 256 LED WS2812b panel can draw when showing all-white pixels at full brightness is 256 x 60mA = 15.36A at 5V. That means you'd need 46A for three panels alone, which would require a 5V x 46A = 230W power supply. What I'm saying is that the 40W power supply I'm using is enough to make the panels light up brightly enough to hurt my eyes, and the eyes of others. A factor in that may also well be that the panels never show all pixels in full-brightness white in practice, as that would not make a very interesting effect. You could go all the way and provide power to match the maximum power specs of the panels. In that case you will have to indeed make sure you use cables and connectors that can handle the amps (i.e. just over 15A per panel). Edit: again, if you want to go full-blast on your panels you could also hook up a separate "lower-wattage" power supply to each panel; at ~16A per panel you'd be looking at 80W per supply. If you go that way make sure the grounds of all power supplies including the one powering the m/c are connected. |
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I am new to this and just want to avoid damaging components etc I buy (because of the costs), so the info on the product site just raised an alarm bell. Where it says for the matrix: Power:0.1W So, they are recommending 1 DC5V6A(30W) for just 1 panel ? (or the 100W for the 77W they mention) Surely the diasychaining should work as it's part of the design? Do the manufacturers have advice on this? I'm happy to go whichever way so long as it works, I just want to know which components to buy and the voltage/amps etc - I'm finding it hard to find the right ones at the right voltage and amp ratings in the UK Earlier, you said
So now I'm really confused! Ultimately, I want to put the three matrixes and the MStickCPlus into some sort of case - any suggestions there? In Dave's video he refers to disabling the onboard mic for the spectrum project - but then how does it respond to sound? That part of his video confuses me. |
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I'm struggling to find all the connectors/adapters rated for the same
voltage and amps here in the UK
The voltage is a non-issue. Even if you move to 24VDC strips, it's not like
you're going to air-arc them.
but they are 6A not 8A
I worked this problem backward for you. I went my drawer of stuff and got
my heaviest looking barrel jacks.
I won't conclude that it's either cause or effect, but all the 10A (serious
overkill for the task at hand) that I grabbed were metal shouldered
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/RUNCCI-YUN-Socket-Threaded-Connector-Adapter/dp/B0836N82PR>
and meant to be chassis mounted. I actually used them in a case and they're
super easy and attractive to mount.
I'm unconvinced theese
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/QWORK-Connector-Female-Connectors-Security/dp/B09TL177FD/>
are
20A, but by golly if you melt 'em, I'd hold them to that warranty claim. :-)
I'm unclear on the number of AC adapters I need for the 3 panels and the
M5StickC Plus (I'll shorten this to m/c for micro controller).
It sounds like you're building a Spectrum. That's 3 panels + the MCU.
(micro controller unit)
Do I need two separate AC adaptes or do I split the power from one between
the three panels and the m/c,
Age old question. Do you want three, lesser expensive, independent PSUs
(the U means the same) or do you want one, heavier one? Tradeoffs around
cooling, cost, portability, setup times (if you're on the road) etc. You
really can go either way. One tradeoff is more, smaller wires vs fewer,
more chunky wires. You'll also eventually want the controller and the
lights to not be immediately next to each other, so plan for some heavier
gauge wire for a longer run. Think "low number of meters" instead of
"decimeters".
I also see the pattern while looking into the throat of a variety of these
that the units that have metal all the way around the pin are the ones that
mate only to their 2.1/2.5mm soulmate. The ones that have bitey "teeth",
like in your picture, have jaws that spring out and can tolerate that
fraction of a millimeter on each side. Similarly, ones that have sheet
metal, v-shaped "fins" that come up and touch the pins are more tolerant
about accepting adjacent sizes.
I didn't get a vote, but having two sizes that are so inscrutably close
really was a dumb decision.
As we've both tried to explain, the electronics worst case on these really
is some distance from the real-world energy use. You're simply not going to
turn on 768 pixels full brightness, each with each of the Red, Green, and
Blue at full tilt. Your face will melt. My lab power supply only goes to
10A. If I were planning to mount something permanently where I wouldn't be
aware of it overheating it or I were starting a personal lighthouse, I'd
probably fret more about it, but a TOTAL of 6-8 for a Mesmerizer seems
pretty respectable to me. I have a box of five 5A/5V's and just start
feeding displays individually. That also lets me get a little more distance
between them, exactly like you DON'T want for a Spectrum.
Look at the super-literal math. A Spectrum is 3 (panels) * 256(bulbs) *
.06W/bulb. The units cancel and that's ***@***.*** Deregulate that to 80% for
continuous use and that's out of the land of cute little convenient bricks
and into blocks like
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Baiyouli-Universal-Regulated-Switching-10W-300W/dp/B07D6QZZSH/
You could find an old PC power supply and find the key to "jump starting"
the needed pins in the post-AT (>= ATX) world, but that's just plain big
and the amount of light you get is physically painful.
If you are legit concerned about it, we do have a current limiter in the
code and putting a fuse inline might not be a terrible idea anyway. (Keep
replacements on hands or use resettable breakers.) I can't remember if it's
turned off or web controlled, but we can dig that up for you. I know you
can wiggle it when rebuilding the tree.
with just a data line from the m/c to the panel?
See the dangly green wire in my first batch of pictures. I crimp ferrules
onto them so they don't frazzle. No shame with a twist or a tinned solder,
either. Or Wagos.
Do I need to supply the DC splitter power to each matrix individually or
just to the first one?
It's also up to you whether you want to split the PSU off and feed the MCU.
PERSONALLY, I find that powering them from old phone chargers (not TOO old
- the 10W or more, or anything with native USB-C) to allow me to more
easily separate the controller from the panel. One downfall to using
independent chargers to each panel is that you really DO need to keep a
common ground between all of them to keep your signal ground common. That
can be a MUCH smaller gauge of cable than you're using for power.
Oh, this may not be on your radar, but if you later go to strips instead of
grid/matrix/clumps, they're often NOT using 5V, so that's another reason to
power them independently from the MCUs - you just plain have to.
Won't the daisy chained connectors also carry the current to each
subsequent matrix?
Daisy chaining the 5V'ers honestly works badly. There's enough resistance
(in electronics it means exactly what it means in civilian use - think
"friction" on the inside of a hose) inside the strip that you put 5V inside
one end and get maybe 4.3V out the other. The connector peels off another
tenth of a volt. The first couple of lights are bright enough, but you
notice going on down the strip, the blues start to fade out and everything
turns to an orangey/red. (because you lost the blue and the red is the last
to go. If you're not a good boy, I'll keep talking and explain why...) This
is why lighting nerds talk about "power injection" along long runs (and a
15cm square tile doesn't feel long, but it's 256 px long just in a snake
... or a "boustrophedon" as some guy taught us on YouTube..) and we run a
parallel cable with only power that we peel off every few meters to put a
fresh dollop of power back into the cable to boost it back to a fresh level.
Back on the topic of strips, this is exactly WHY longer strips are usually
12V or 24V. The higher voltage makes them less bogged down by the constant
(per linear unit) distance. This is also why the power in your home is
240VAC but the power lines running through your village may be 100KVAC or
more! When you're running many kilometers, it matters a LOT.
For more on this topic that you ever wanted to know Quinn from qled.info
makes a set of YouTube talks on lighting. I don't agree with all of his
wisdom and guidance, but he's educational for those starting with a light
electronics background.
I almost I feel like I've failed you on your start by giving you TOO MANY
choices. Do you think I should I/we have been more prescriptive? Maybe for
combinations like Spectrum we should put together a list of actual part
numbers and short "instructables" style instructions and leave fewer
options. (And we'll use my referral codes that I've forgotten to sneak in
here we can retire from those nickels per click!)
RJL
P.S. As yet another distraction, in another window, I'm working with a chap
in Italy that's building an ESP32-S3 controller that'll take the power from
USB-C power delivery PSUs and buck/boost a USB-C power supply or
barrel-jack supply of your choosing and let you run all this right from the
JST connectors. 65W PD PSUs are still enough to toss around a Spectrum,
even in that worst case we spoke of. If sag is a real issue (on a single
display, it's not, IME, but with 3 you might want another wire to the other
end.) you can re-inject from the other end. It won't have the little
display of your Espressif controller, but it'd also be a heck of a lot
closer to plug-and-chug that we've talked about in this conversation. But
then we don't get to recommend USB-C soldering irons (Pinecil),
Microscopes, and other toys! :-)
… Message ID:
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I think when starting out on these projects, that would be so helpful. Baby steps etc I haven't touched microelectronics since college - which was a loooooooonng time ago and I don't remember much from those days. |
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I feel befuzzled :-(
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I think I neglected to add one more picture to my first set, which is one showing everything connected and running. So, here we go:
So:
And as you can see, there's enough light coming off the LEDs to mildly overload the camera in my phone. |
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I have / have ordered: • 1 power supply providing 5V at 8A (40W) • 1 M5StickC Plus running the Spectrum project What I don't have yet: • 1 barrel adapter to convert the 2.5mm core power supply connector to 2.1mm, between the power supply and the splitter • 1 five-way 2.1mm splitter, connected to the barrel adapter on one side, and panels and M5StickC Plus on the other. This has been rated for a total power transfer of 10A. • 3 2.1mm female barrel connectors connected to one barrel of the splitter on the socket side, and one of the panels at the wire side. These barrel connectors are definitely not rated beyond 6A. ? 1 more 2.1mm female barrel connector connected to another barrel of the splitter on the socket side, and the pin header in the M5StickC Plus at the wire side. ---> Have I ordered enough? • 1 data wire leading to the left-most panel's 3-pin JST SM connector from the pin header in the M5StickC Plus • 1 (optional) IR receiver connected to the pin header in the M5StickC Plus with all three of its pins |
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I've kind of lost the beat and am about to leave on a trip, but...
On Wed, Jul 3, 2024 at 9:04 AM Darren B. ***@***.***> wrote:
-> Why does it need to be five way?
It doesn't. Look near the white label on Rutger's loop. You can see one of
the five not plugged into anything. The remaining four are (3) for the
panels and (1) for the MCU.
• 3 2.1mm female barrel connectors connected to one barrel of the splitter
on the socket side, and one of the panels at the wire side. These barrel
connectors are definitely not rated beyond 6A.
Shouldn't there be four, per above?
Oh. Ten pack...
-> Is that these?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LightingWill-Barrel-Connector-Adapter-Security-10Pair-
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/LightingWill-Barrel-Connector-Adapter-Security-10Pair-Female-Male-DC-adaptor/dp/B077YGV3F4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1V8D8BOC5ZOTM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.azov6pY5S4niIbOB1bNbOaXWluDCAQoFUEWF3JVwo9cKTBj8_PtZru3U9nMCdJSMAZAv_rgQDq2Qvd8OyOrsqx6k0hL3wx0U0hTp8MWb-_FGBT4v5GY3w9drOQ4rnK5Iyq0oq7af0NZmxSF0_AYt6r1pSbI4djWfbbGDlIWM5-MZFR_kvmnUkc1TnXnHQkapKfLdprlp_rJgXRS6BRRmuKxzeVsmN77D12bUDhIvw0E.FWY8_oL7MVBsuKYkXwCIYt6TaYgwWYWFx4E3plk35iQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=BARREL+connectors&qid=1720015058&sprefix=barrel+connectors%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1>
Yes.
1 more 2.1mm female barrel connector connected to another barrel of the
splitter on the socket side, and the pin header in the M5StickC Plus at the
wire side. ---> Have I ordered enough?
Oh, we're doing this out of order. OK. Yes, 4 < 10.
• 1 data wire leading to the left-most panel's 3-pin JST SM connector
from the pin header in the M5StickC Plus
Nothing really magic about that wire. If you have some speaker wire,
doorbell wire, or leftovers from from a garage door installation, you're
fine.
As a hobbyist, I like the silicone assortments (silicone doesn't melt and
is bendy) like
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicone-Electrical-Wire-HuLuWa-0-5mm%C2%B2-Stranded/dp/B0BP795PQC
...but that seems like a lot if you need only a bit. Maybe something like:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Equipment-0-20MM-Yellow-Connection-Electrical/dp/B09X5QPWYX
• 1 (optional) IR receiver connected to the pin header in the M5StickC
Plus with all three of its pins
I've already weighed in for the KY-022's and potentially dupont wires if
you're committing to the hobby or just soldering these three wires.
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There's a few in these amazon results but when you go into the details they all seem to say lower Amps or 12V not 5V Why do they seem so hard to find? Is there an easier way to search for these? |
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I think that simply put, you may just be best off trusting that a certain amount of power (at low voltage) can flow through a set of wires of reasonable thickness. I will not absolutely guarantee that this will work, but I'm willing to reimburse the GBP 5.79 if this is the actual component that keeps your overall setup from working: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splitter-Connector-devices-Compatible-Security/dp/B08MV49WX6/ref=sr_1_1 It's basically what I got a year and a half ago, but with 4 cables coming out of it instead of 5. |
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What is the easiest way to connect to the M5StickC Plus? |
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What is it you want to achieve? As in: what do you want to connect to the M5StickC Plus for? |
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Because that's the controller in this project? How do I connect the wires to it? |
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Ah, that connection. Well, I've already shared in text and image how I've done it, but it may be that @robertlipe knows an easier way. |
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What do need to look for when buying an 8 pin header? Is there a way to do this without soldering? |
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See above discussion on DuPont Wires.
If you have a reason to believe they're not standard .100 posts, send
pictures and measurements.
It's possible they may called 2.54mm posts in civilized countries.
This is one of the few things I can think of that's clearly made to be an
even number of hundredths of a inch. That's just always been the standard
pin spacing on through hole parts for ever...
…On Mon, Jul 8, 2024, 12:15 PM Darren B. ***@***.***> wrote:
What do need to look for when buying an 8 pin header? Is there a way to do
this without soldering?
—
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[DuPont Jumper Wires](https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=dupont+wire&s=price-asc-rank) come in a variety of sizes, colors, lengths and gender combinations. You can buy them from the bargain bin, but I don't. If you have a project with a hundred such connections (it happens) and one important wire is loose, it will cost you WAY more in the cost of debugging than you "saved" on these. I suspect that lots of different "brands" roll off the same assembly lines and I have no way how to point to good ones vs bad ones. Only after you stab them into breadboards (or M5sticks) and around components will you learn the difference.
You can buy individual silicone ones that are nice because they're super-flexy. These are handy for connections you know in advance you'll be moving a lot.
Buying in bulk or when making your own cables, you can buy wide ones that are wires next to each other (like FDC ports, parallel printer cables, older SCSI cables, etc.) and just zip off the width you need. It the photographed example, you can see I've tugged a bit on the two outer (red and brown) leads and they would just unzip. If you remember old trash bags that used to come with zip ties where the wire ran the length and the paper/plastic that attached them kind of held them together until you unzipped them, these may seem oddly familiar.
It's not a coincidence that they're often packaged with [breadboards](https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=breadboard) or simply electronics starter kits so you can stab parts into these and then attach the wires. Connections are side-to-side but the power rails (VCC and GND) run the entire length. They're separated for good reasons. [Breadboards (not recommending this kit specifically)](https://www.analog.com/en/resources/analog-dialogue/studentzone/studentzone-november-2016.html) were THE way to prototype hobbyist electronics for decades; only recently has it become cost-effective for a hobbyist to make their own PCB for not a huge amount of money.
It occurs to me that Brits call wires "leads" and that might be mixing us up. More than one conductor, whether that's axial (e.g. coaxial cable for a television or radio frequency signal) or parallel (as above) or just kind of loosely bundled in the same exteriour jacket (as in a power) are called "cables".
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I use the word cables to mean wires. Do I just slot the other end of the dupont jumper wire onto the relevant pins on the connector of the LEDs? |
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They won't pair with the JST SM connector. Those only mate with an opposite
gender of the same. (The data pin would be blocked by the power pins.) I
stock pigtails of the 3pin
<https://www.amazon.com/WESIRI-3pin-JST-SM-Connectors/dp/B0BW777LBK/ref=sr_1_27?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6pSzKJBQfko0oAfDkC8pmlNLIK3V_770Tp7QJLhvmzov84VN0EurbnI66rnhQhRHla-pm4GHFYVud7HJPi8SpfjoSqClXSrbSj3tPqimJaZQfE8yEl8YVoIQiQUwZWU0LgrP-69LkfHkao993XxDwO5USMHLhJ_JEv-fuahKmhr7dySlc282zvBDNiFwbJL9GFqEcA47nJkV08xYkiQgD8agxZ5poD-N8cz7ZfSoKidti_0c-m4zW6xQh0wFc4ecYF3vGqqx8k3LrAnReTqXdJ--SBeKQwma7tJuAZtkEUM.OR6YaxD4kd6hlKL7SPxSi3lZTFMBlBO3DhJ-t86fiBc&dib_tag=se&keywords=jst%2Bsm%2Bconnector&qid=1720539508&sr=8-27&th=1>
JST'
<https://www.amazon.com/WESIRI-3pin-JST-SM-Connectors/dp/B0BW777LBK/ref=sr_1_27?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6pSzKJBQfko0oAfDkC8pmlNLIK3V_770Tp7QJLhvmzov84VN0EurbnI66rnhQhRHla-pm4GHFYVud7HJPi8SpfjoSqClXSrbSj3tPqimJaZQfE8yEl8YVoIQiQUwZWU0LgrP-69LkfHkao993XxDwO5USMHLhJ_JEv-fuahKmhr7dySlc282zvBDNiFwbJL9GFqEcA47nJkV08xYkiQgD8agxZ5poD-N8cz7ZfSoKidti_0c-m4zW6xQh0wFc4ecYF3vGqqx8k3LrAnReTqXdJ--SBeKQwma7tJuAZtkEUM.OR6YaxD4kd6hlKL7SPxSi3lZTFMBlBO3DhJ-t86fiBc&dib_tag=se&keywords=jst%2Bsm%2Bconnector&qid=1720539508&sr=8-27&th=1>s
to avoid
cutting up strips. If you're solder-free, you can use the aforementioned
Wagos to either feed in a male end of the duponts and the other to the
pigtail, but you can cut and splice with a wago or a wirenut or just a
tight twist and some tape if everything is relatively static.
BTW, don't forget that thing that Rutger and I both repeated about three
times each in a message - you need a shared ground between power,
controller, and lights.
In other windows, I'm working with two different groups on products that
would make this whole thing easier for you, but neither are quite to market
yet...and neither have the little screen of the board you're using, so
maybe it's not a net win.
…On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 7:23 AM Darren B. ***@***.***> wrote:
I use the word cables to mean wires. Do I just slot the other end of the
dupont jumper wire onto the relevant pins on the connector of the LEDs?
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Here is what I have so far, it's just laid out not connected up:
|
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I'm really unclear with the mass of information and different approaches to connections etc. How do you get/make this?
Is this power supply I bought okay? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0999C6Q93?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details It was mentioned somewhere about testing the power supply with a multimeter... what am I testing and how do I do that? The comments say about using two power supply ac adapters but there's only one in the image, really confused and unsure what I should be doing on this. How do I wire and connect the grounds correctly? Why do I eventually want the controller far away?
What won't pair please? Some of the reply contents mean nothing to me - what wagos do I need for this? What are they, how do they work? Where do they fit into the wiring/connections? |
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Darren, I am also trying to make a contribution. The men all have your best interests at heart. And everyone has their ways of connecting and explaining. Maybe a drawing will help. I'm not the best draftsman, it won't be technically correct but maybe it will help you. My explanation, you have your m5stickc plus. It needs 5v + and 5v-. You connect those to your power supply. Your led matrix has 3 connections and they are the following: white is the minus (-) green is the data and red is the plus (+) These are connected as follows: the White goes to the minus of the power supply (-) the green to the m5stickc plus on G26 (that's your data line) and the red goes to the plus of your power supply (+) Basically, you have then made all the connections regarding the led matrix and the controller. When working with LEDs and other peripherals, you should always connect the ground of all equipment to the power supply. So the ground of the matrix to the power supply, and the ground of the controller. There are cables for sale with the same connection as on the led matrix. I find this works better. I don't like those thin dupont cables. I was taught that a ws2812b LED draws 60ma at full white light. So in theory, this matrix can draw about 46 amps at full brightness. So I would not use too thin cables. That the controller should not be too close to the matrix is, I think, about avoiding interference. Am a tinkerer, and definitely not a professional! Love to tinker, so do have some experience in this matter. I don't like loose connections and plugs if I don't have to. I prefer to solder everything. What you see on the photo is just to illustrate. To show you how to connect everything. Didn't read everything in the comments above! So maybe there are already things I mentioned in the other comments. But in your last comment I read some frustration. So try to help! Regards Harrie |
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thanks @heidepiek , appreciate the help, although this has confused me further, as comments above explain why daisy-chaining the power across the matrixes as in your diagram is not a good idea. You sense my frustration well. |
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Harrie |
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Never had any problems with this method of connection. But even better is to connect the two wires in the middle (black(-) and red(+) ) as well. More wires, but proportional load across the LED matrix. Also keep in mind that the led matrices can get hot (lots of amps) Preferably stick them on an aluminium plate for cooling if you use them for a long time. Better for the life span. |
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Thanks @heidepiek - so this is different to the previous comments, as, in those, each matrix had an individual power connection from the ac adapter dc output via a dc splitter. In the above diagram, there's no connection to the m5Stickc plus for power... is this coming from a seperate ac adapter? I'm new to this so I'm confused by all these different answers, which is right, which is best. Each seems to have their own explanation but I'm no clearer on which way forward :-( |
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I'm doing my best Darren, the last drawing I sent is correct, I just didn't draw the plus and minus to the m5stick. If you connect the matrices as shown in the drawing, and you connect the plus of the same power supply to the plus of the m5 stick and the minus of the power supply to the minus of the m5 stick, everything works. I understand that you would like a diagram with all connections. If you are not comfortable with daisy chaining, you can also choose to connect all the plus and minus connections to the power supply. Hmm, it's not easy being a teacher😟 Perhaps it would not be unwise, Darren, to delve deeper into the LED matter. Reading makes you wiser. There are so many roads to Rome. |
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Perfectly explained. Thank you.
…On Wed, Jul 10, 2024 at 12:05 PM Harke Bosgraaf ***@***.***> wrote:
Darren, I am also trying to make a contribution. The men all have your
best interests at heart. And everyone has their ways of connecting and
explaining. Maybe a drawing will help. I'm not the best draftsman, it won't
be technically correct but maybe it will help you. My explanation, you have
your m5stickc plus. It needs 5v + and 5v-. You connect those to your power
supply. Your led matrix has 3 connections and they are the following: white
is the minus (-) green is the data and red is the plus (+) These are
connected as follows: the White goes to the minus of the power supply (-)
the green to the m5stickc plus on G26 (that's your data line) and the red
goes to the plus of your power supply (+) Basically, you have then made all
the connections regarding the led matrix and the controller. When working
with LEDs and other peripherals, you should always connect the ground of
all equipment to the power supply. So the ground of the matrix to the power
supply, and the ground of the controller. There are cables for sale with
the same connection as on the led matrix. I find this works better. I don't
like those thin dupont cables. I was taught that a ws2812b LED draws 60ma
at full white light. So in theory, this matrix can draw about 46 amps at
full brightness. So I would not use too thin cables. That the controller
should not be too close to the matrix is, I think, about avoiding
interference. Am a tinkerer, and definitely not a professional! Love to
tinker, so do have some experience in this matter. I don't like loose
connections and plugs if I don't have to. I prefer to solder everything.
What you see on the photo is just to illustrate. To show you how to connect
everything. Didn't read everything in the comments above! So maybe there
are already things I mentioned in the other comments. But in your last
comment I read some frustration. So try to help!
Regards Harrie
drawing.jpg (view on web)
<https://github.com/PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/assets/104028471/44d69850-d0fe-4055-ab59-a88f15531bfc>
m5stickc.jpg (view on web)
<https://github.com/PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip/assets/104028471/5cf1e976-9712-4be9-9f00-d5159eb4d139>
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My humble opinion is that @heidepiek may well have addressed some very important points in his last comments:
I think this discussion is now the most content-rich exchange about the M5StickC Plus-based hardware setup for the Spectrum project ever conceived. I know for a fact all the information one needs to create such a setup is here - with multiple possible avenues to choose from. |
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That's part of this - learning, and something I've learnt on this is that there isn't necessarly one set way or correct way. But I did not know that before. There's also the learning how to use different tools, components, connectors etc. I intend to dive deeper into the technical and science over time, but right now I just want to get this first project up and running to keep my motivation up. |
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I'm trying to understand how these things work and what I need to do with them... What do I do with the highlighted end and where and what can/does this plug in to? :
What goes into these and how? :
Where and how do I use these? : Can I make use of these wires? Do I need to with the other wires/connectors I have already listed previously? What is the orange thing for? :
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The highlighted part of the cable shown : red is plus the white is ground and the green is data. In the second photo you have a connector that says + and - The + is plus and the - is ground. Wago connectors allow you to loop cables together. The orange thing is a stripper i think. For the wires, https://precmfgco.com/wire-gauge-sizes-guide/ |
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Are these wires suitable for these types of projects or should I have got a different AWG?
How do I know what gauge wire to use for these projects? |
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What gauge wires do you use? |
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I don't know, but thinner than 18 AWG. Which I can do, because I only use individual wires for the connections to/from the M5StickC Plus, which are all extremely low-amp. I route the power to the matrices - which is by far the majority of electrical current flowing - through a pre-made power splitter cable, as I've shown in earlier pictures. My guess would be that 18 AWG is enough for the power flow to the matrices in this setup, if you don't make the wires too long. It's the voltage drop over longer distances that will become problematic at some point. At the same time, if you reach that point you can address that to some extent by using two wires in parallel for the same connection. |
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Have you looked into the matter a bit darren? Ps: rutger beat me to it to answer |
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What gauge wires are these @rbergen ?
I don't have any wire apart from what I've bought new that I showed in my image earlier in the thread. For the the 3 matrixes, I'd like to put them in a case and want them to stand up - any recommendations ? What do I need to look for in a soldering iron? Do I need a specific type of solder? Do you get different types? |
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I genuinely don't know what gauge my wiring is. I have a bag of it in different colours, I can't find any markings on it that would help, nor do I remember where I bought it. It's thin, it's braided, it's flexible and it works. It could actually be 28 AWG, looking at how thin it is. But again: that's guess-work based on a pair of 47-year old eyes looking at very thin wires. What I did do is a bit of googling, and I see other people recommending 22 AWG for projects like these. So, maybe get something between 22 and 28? Concerning soldering irons, my recommendations would be to get one that:
When it comes to solder, I have one real advice: make sure it's leaded. Personally I use Velleman solder of an Sn 60%/Pb 40% mix, with a 0.5mm thickness. Which is thin but works for me with a thin tip, and you shouldn't use too much of it anyway or you'll just end up "solder blob connecting" the pins together. As you can see I do not have a case myself, so I would not feel qualified to make any recommendations about it. Maybe someone else can. |
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What temperature range do I need to look for?
Why leaded? |
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Leaded solder has a lower melting point and flows better. I mainly use leaded solder to lower the melting point of lead-free solder when removing circuit board components. If you use leaded solder, ensure you have a great fume extractor. Either way, you should use a fume extractor whenever possible. My preferred soldering iron when at my workbench is the Hakko FX888D. I have a TS100 that works great on the go and in tight places. |
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I have not yet come across an enclosure for the LED matrix ready-made. You will have to make one yourself. Am working on a project for 3 ledmatrixes myself. Made myself an aluminium plate the size for 3 matrixes. Fastened the 3 matrixes to the plate with thermally conductive tape ( thanks for the heads up mr blinky). This because you then have the 3 matrixes fixed next to each other and the aluminium plate works as a heat sink. This benefits the lifespan of the LEDs. I am also working on grids to diffuse the light. I think this gives a nice effect. ! Harrie spectrum_m5.mp4
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If the wires are short and about the same as was already on the strip
they're fine. You posted pics before. Unless you're running power over them
20+feet, they're fine.
I'm pretty sure I already recommended Pinecil in this thread. It gets hot
enough. A setting of about 310 is fine for this grade of work, but that'll
be covered in the tutorials you'll look up.
https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-portable-mini-stand/ is handy.
You're already overloaded on electronics. Do you want a round of
metallurgy? We can get into molecular bonding of metals if you really want
to do that, too. Get leaded. Get some solder wick (it's a braid) to remove
solder from where you don't want it.
…On Wed, Jul 17, 2024, 1:21 PM Darren B. ***@***.***> wrote:
Allows you to set the temperature.
What temperature range do I need to look for?
When it comes to solder, I have one real advice: make sure it's leaded.
Personally I use Velleman solder of an Sn 60%/Pb 40% mix, with a 0.5mm
thickness. Which is thin but works for me with a thin tip, and you
shouldn't use too much of it anyway or you'll just end up "solder blob
connecting" the pins together.
Why leaded?
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What size screws are these please?
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Well, as you can see on the picture there is no size specification to be found. Personally, I'd call them "small". |
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If the barrel connectors are advertised as 12V, are they okay with the 5V power supply? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077YGV3F4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 |
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Less is fine. Don't put 110/220V AC on them. |
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Hi
I'm quite new to this. I'm using an M5StickC Plus, connected to pc via USB C.
I'm wanting to work with a BTF LED matrix (the Spectrum initially)
I'm unsure about a few things...
• The info for the BTF LEDs says that each 16x16 needs DC5V. Where does each 16x16 matrix get the 5V from?
• If the M5StickC Plus and the LED matrix were running disconnected from the computer, how would you supply power to the M5StickC Plus and the matrix? Would it require two separate AC adapters?
• How would I connect and setup the M5StickC Plus for debug info - you previously mentioned via serial but I've struggled to find how to do this?
• How would I connect and setup the M5StickC Plus for debug info - you previously mentioned via serial but I've struggled to find how to do this?
• The videos recommend using a 'USB switch' but I'm unsure if I'm thinking of the right sort of device and in what way it would be used? How would I develop/test with the M5StickC Plus and an LED matrix or strip without the power for the strip coming from the PC?
• How is the M5StickC Plus connected to the LED matrix?
Kind regards,
Darren
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