Replies: 17 comments 1 reply
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It's really an amperage question, as you already state. Depending on what source you get your information from, each WS2812B LED takes between 50 and 60 mA when at full power (as in: brightest white). 51x4x60mA is about 12A. Although you'll never run all LEDs on full power under normal circumstances, a "typical" 5V USB-C power adapter can deliver up to 3A (but also quite possibly only 1 or 2 amps - check your supply!). I'd call that decidedly underpowered for the power demand you can expect, also because you don't really want to run your power supply at the max of its rating, all the time. There's not really a thing like power wire that's too thick, from a power transfer perspective. Too thin does exist. The recommended gauge for 12A at 5V is 14 AWG, and 12 is obviously pretty close to that. Which means you're not using wire that's ridiculously oversized. |
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So now I'm researching power and it doesn't seem that a power supply that's 5V-15A is feasible. I found one with a 5.5/2.5mm barrel connector but finding a female terminal that can carry 15A isn't easy. AI has suggested that type of connector isn't recommended. For anyone that's built this, how are you actually powering it? |
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I’m using a connector, but it does worry me because on all-white, it will get warm. I’ve hardwired my spectrum analyzer to the power supply wires for that reason. But yup, 10-15A is a lot of current!
… On Mar 17, 2025, at 8:08 AM, slbailey ***@***.***> wrote:
So now I'm researching power and it doesn't seem that a power supply that's 5V-15A is feasible. I found one with a 5.5/2.5mm barrel connector but finding a female terminal that can carry 15A isn't easy. AI has suggested that type of connector isn't recommended.
For anyone that's built this, how are you actually powering it?
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In the nightdriver package, can I limit the brightness to 50%? I’d rather try to limit the brightness in software and keep it under 7A and use standard barrel connectors.
From: David W Plummer ***@***.***>
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2025 11:30 AM
To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp -- power (Discussion #701)
I’m using a connector, but it does worry me because on all-white, it will get warm. I’ve hardwired my spectrum analyzer to the power supply wires for that reason. But yup, 10-15A is a lot of current!
On Mar 17, 2025, at 8:08 AM, slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> > wrote:
So now I'm researching power and it doesn't seem that a power supply that's 5V-15A is feasible. I found one with a 5.5/2.5mm barrel connector but finding a female terminal that can carry 15A isn't easy. AI has suggested that type of connector isn't recommended.
For anyone that's built this, how are you actually powering it?
—
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You can limit the power draw to a specific number of mW. There's some source code documentation about it here (ignore the mA that's mentioned in the actual #define line, it is mW): NightDriverStrip/include/globals.h Lines 1419 to 1429 in fbd284d BUT, as it says, there is a risk to trying to manage hardware safety with a software solution. For one, you rely on all links in the chain (software and hardware) actually complying with your request. Which they should, but personally I wouldn't bet my house on it. |
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Yes, this is the same approach.
Much beyond 6A in those cheap barrel connectors is just unwise anyway.
…On Mon, Mar 17, 2025, 11:13 AM slbailey ***@***.***> wrote:
In the nightdriver package, can I limit the brightness to 50%? I’d rather
try to limit the brightness in software and keep it under 7A and use
standard barrel connectors.
From: David W Plummer ***@***.***>
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2025 11:30 AM
To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
power (Discussion #701)
I’m using a connector, but it does worry me because on all-white, it will
get warm. I’ve hardwired my spectrum analyzer to the power supply wires for
that reason. But yup, 10-15A is a lot of current!
> On Mar 17, 2025, at 8:08 AM, slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***>
> wrote:
>
>
> So now I'm researching power and it doesn't seem that a power supply
that's 5V-15A is feasible. I found one with a 5.5/2.5mm barrel connector
but finding a female terminal that can carry 15A isn't easy. AI has
suggested that type of connector isn't recommended.
>
> For anyone that's built this, how are you actually powering it?
>
> —
> Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <
#701 (comment)>,
or unsubscribe <
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Fuses are still things for a good reason. They have a very predictable
failure mode. That's what they do and why they appear in some form in most
everything.
Self resetters are nice on the bench but if you want something today for
your project, a trip to the auto parts store will get you holders and fuses.
If you're approximately close to you target - close enough to smell
mlelting wire - limit the brightness in software and try it. Ask yourself
if you REALLY want it brighter than that. If not, derate your components,
fuse it, and you're fine. In a few hours, feel your connections and see if
anything is hotter than warm to the touch.
First time Lighting Nerds like to think about 1600W of LEDs for a desk
lamp, but when they realize that will heat a room and can be seen from the
moon, lower numbers usually prevail. 😉
I recently put in 2M towers of 24V with 8A supplies and it's ridiculously
overrated. I think I measured 2A before the owner-to-be cried mercy. Those
supplies aren't overheating while they're idle and they're fused at input
and output and software limited.
Thought exercise to support Rutger's point above: software limiters won't
protect against varmints chewing wires, staple guns, nailers in walls, etc.
We can limit the brightness by protocol, but you have to design for those
wires being twisted together... Which means the esp32 board needs air,
too. Once shorted, those 1177 LVDOs will turn into space heaters, too.
…On Mon, Mar 17, 2025, 11:33 AM Robert Lipe ***@***.***> wrote:
Yes, this is the same approach.
Much beyond 6A in those cheap barrel connectors is just unwise anyway.
On Mon, Mar 17, 2025, 11:13 AM slbailey ***@***.***> wrote:
> In the nightdriver package, can I limit the brightness to 50%? I’d rather
> try to limit the brightness in software and keep it under 7A and use
> standard barrel connectors.
>
>
>
> From: David W Plummer ***@***.***>
> Sent: Monday, March 17, 2025 11:30 AM
> To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
> Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
> Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
> power (Discussion #701)
>
>
>
> I’m using a connector, but it does worry me because on all-white, it will
> get warm. I’ve hardwired my spectrum analyzer to the power supply wires for
> that reason. But yup, 10-15A is a lot of current!
>
> > On Mar 17, 2025, at 8:08 AM, slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> > So now I'm researching power and it doesn't seem that a power supply
> that's 5V-15A is feasible. I found one with a 5.5/2.5mm barrel connector
> but finding a female terminal that can carry 15A isn't easy. AI has
> suggested that type of connector isn't recommended.
> >
> > For anyone that's built this, how are you actually powering it?
> >
> > —
> > Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <
> #701 (comment)>,
> or unsubscribe <
> https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AA4HCF33GPVCM3GULFKYIYT2U3QNNAVCNFSM6AAAAABZD3XMTKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43URDJONRXK43TNFXW4Q3PNVWWK3TUHMYTENJSGY3TGMQ>.
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When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately like this:
I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects, it rarely hits this theoretical maximum, and I never run it at full brightness. For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw with my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came near what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and then add +25% overhead. Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then add a step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination of e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper than a $20 high-amp 5V supply. |
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Forgive me but where did you find a step down converter that could handle 12.6A for $2?
From: tomioe ***@***.***>
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2025 3:55 PM
To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp -- power (Discussion #701)
When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately like this:
53 LED's pr lamp arm * 4 = 212 led's @ 144 LED/m => 1.472 m @ 43.2 W/m => 63 W => 12.6A @ 5V
I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects, it rarely hits this theoretical maximum.
For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw with my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came near what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and then add +25% overhead.
Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then add a step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination of e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper than a $20 high-amp 5V supply.
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You don't. You use higher voltage strips and then use the $2 adapter to
power the 5v controller.
Tomioes experience matches that of many of us. You do the engineering, then
you realize that youll never really have 144px/m of full white anyway
because it'd be as bright as the sun, so you derate it down to something
reasonable AND ensure it doesn't go over that.
Those footbridges in the park rated at 16,000pounds will never see 16,000
pounds, either. 16,000 pounds of humans (in cars) won't fit.
If you DO want bright white, white LEDs (or rgbw) are much more power
efficient to deliver white.
…On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 7:47 AM slbailey ***@***.***> wrote:
Forgive me but where did you find a step down converter that could handle
12.6A for $2?
From: tomioe ***@***.***>
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2025 3:55 PM
To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
power (Discussion #701)
When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately like
this:
53 LED's pr lamp arm * 4 = 212 led's @ 144 LED/m => 1.472 m @ 43.2 W/m =>
63 W => 12.6A @ 5V
I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU
straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects, it
rarely hits this theoretical maximum.
For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw with
my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came near
what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and then
add +25% overhead.
Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then add a
step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination of
e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper than a
$20 high-amp 5V supply.
—
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#701 (comment)>
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No I get that but you still need to deliver the amps through the step down. So if you’re using 10A (for example) to power everything at 5v, your step down has to be able to handle 10A, right? Or am I missing something?
From: Robert Lipe ***@***.***>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 11:34 AM
To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp -- power (Discussion #701)
You don't. You use higher voltage strips and then use the $2 adapter to
power the 5v controller.
Tomioes experience matches that of many of us. You do the engineering, then
you realize that youll never really have 144px/m of full white anyway
because it'd be as bright as the sun, so you derate it down to something
reasonable AND ensure it doesn't go over that.
Those footbridges in the park rated at 16,000pounds will never see 16,000
pounds, either. 16,000 pounds of humans (in cars) won't fit.
If you DO want bright white, white LEDs (or rgbw) are much more power
efficient to deliver white.
On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 7:47 AM slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> > wrote:
Forgive me but where did you find a step down converter that could handle
12.6A for $2?
From: tomioe ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2025 3:55 PM
To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
Cc: slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >; Author ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
power (Discussion #701)
When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately like
this:
53 LED's pr lamp arm * 4 = 212 led's @ 144 LED/m => 1.472 m @ 43.2 W/m =>
63 W => 12.6A @ 5V
I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU
straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects, it
rarely hits this theoretical maximum.
For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw with
my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came near
what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and then
add +25% overhead.
Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then add a
step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination of
e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper than a
$20 high-amp 5V supply.
—
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#701 (comment)>
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You are missing something, I think. If you need brighter or longer strips,
use higher voltage strips and feed them from a power supply at the right
voltage. Then just step down down the 5v for the controller. This is an
extremely common configuration.
…On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 11:26 AM slbailey ***@***.***> wrote:
No I get that but you still need to deliver the amps through the step
down. So if you’re using 10A (for example) to power everything at 5v, your
step down has to be able to handle 10A, right? Or am I missing something?
From: Robert Lipe ***@***.***>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 11:34 AM
To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
power (Discussion #701)
You don't. You use higher voltage strips and then use the $2 adapter to
power the 5v controller.
Tomioes experience matches that of many of us. You do the engineering,
then
you realize that youll never really have 144px/m of full white anyway
because it'd be as bright as the sun, so you derate it down to something
reasonable AND ensure it doesn't go over that.
Those footbridges in the park rated at 16,000pounds will never see 16,000
pounds, either. 16,000 pounds of humans (in cars) won't fit.
If you DO want bright white, white LEDs (or rgbw) are much more power
efficient to deliver white.
On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 7:47 AM slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
wrote:
> Forgive me but where did you find a step down converter that could
handle
> 12.6A for $2?
>
>
>
> From: tomioe ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
> Sent: Friday, March 21, 2025 3:55 PM
> To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***>
>
> Cc: slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >; Author ***@***.***
<mailto:***@***.***> >
> Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
> power (Discussion #701)
>
>
>
> When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately
like
> this:
>
> 53 LED's pr lamp arm * 4 = 212 led's @ 144 LED/m => 1.472 m @ 43.2 W/m
=>
> 63 W => 12.6A @ 5V
>
> I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU
> straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects,
it
> rarely hits this theoretical maximum.
>
> For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw with
> my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came
near
> what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and
then
> add +25% overhead.
>
> Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then add
a
> step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination
of
> e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper than
a
> $20 high-amp 5V supply.
>
> —
> Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <
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Don’t forget you can (and should) set the max current draw to match your supply and setup. Can’t promise it’s perfectly accurate, but it does pre-calc every frame and do a load check and reduces the brightness accordingly.
- Dave
… On Mar 22, 2025, at 8:33 AM, Robert Lipe ***@***.***> wrote:
You don't. You use higher voltage strips and then use the $2 adapter to
power the 5v controller.
Tomioes experience matches that of many of us. You do the engineering, then
you realize that youll never really have 144px/m of full white anyway
because it'd be as bright as the sun, so you derate it down to something
reasonable AND ensure it doesn't go over that.
Those footbridges in the park rated at 16,000pounds will never see 16,000
pounds, either. 16,000 pounds of humans (in cars) won't fit.
If you DO want bright white, white LEDs (or rgbw) are much more power
efficient to deliver white.
On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 7:47 AM slbailey ***@***.***> wrote:
> Forgive me but where did you find a step down converter that could handle
> 12.6A for $2?
>
>
>
> From: tomioe ***@***.***>
> Sent: Friday, March 21, 2025 3:55 PM
> To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
> Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
> Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
> power (Discussion #701)
>
>
>
> When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately like
> this:
>
> 53 LED's pr lamp arm * 4 = 212 led's @ 144 LED/m => 1.472 m @ 43.2 W/m =>
> 63 W => 12.6A @ 5V
>
> I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU
> straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects, it
> rarely hits this theoretical maximum.
>
> For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw with
> my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came near
> what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and then
> add +25% overhead.
>
> Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then add a
> step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination of
> e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper than a
> $20 high-amp 5V supply.
>
> —
> Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <
> #701 (comment)>
> , or unsubscribe <
> https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AABCURRTBD5GZJFSSVMRF2D2VRVDDAVCNFSM6AAAAABZD3XMTKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43URDJONRXK43TNFXW4Q3PNVWWK3TUHMYTENJYGE2TEOI>
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Fuse it, too. All the clever software around won't protect against a nail
in the wire or hungry varmints.
On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 11:54 AM David W Plummer ***@***.***>
wrote:
… Don’t forget you can (and should) set the max current draw to match your
supply and setup. Can’t promise it’s perfectly accurate, but it does
pre-calc every frame and do a load check and reduces the brightness
accordingly.
- Dave
> On Mar 22, 2025, at 8:33 AM, Robert Lipe ***@***.***> wrote:
>
>
> You don't. You use higher voltage strips and then use the $2 adapter to
> power the 5v controller.
>
> Tomioes experience matches that of many of us. You do the engineering,
then
> you realize that youll never really have 144px/m of full white anyway
> because it'd be as bright as the sun, so you derate it down to something
> reasonable AND ensure it doesn't go over that.
>
> Those footbridges in the park rated at 16,000pounds will never see
16,000
> pounds, either. 16,000 pounds of humans (in cars) won't fit.
>
> If you DO want bright white, white LEDs (or rgbw) are much more power
> efficient to deliver white.
>
> On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 7:47 AM slbailey ***@***.***> wrote:
>
> > Forgive me but where did you find a step down converter that could
handle
> > 12.6A for $2?
> >
> >
> >
> > From: tomioe ***@***.***>
> > Sent: Friday, March 21, 2025 3:55 PM
> > To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
> > Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
> > Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp
--
> > power (Discussion #701)
> >
> >
> >
> > When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately
like
> > this:
> >
> > 53 LED's pr lamp arm * 4 = 212 led's @ 144 LED/m => 1.472 m @ 43.2 W/m
=>
> > 63 W => 12.6A @ 5V
> >
> > I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU
> > straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects,
it
> > rarely hits this theoretical maximum.
> >
> > For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw
with
> > my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came
near
> > what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and
then
> > add +25% overhead.
> >
> > Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then
add a
> > step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination
of
> > e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper
than a
> > $20 high-amp 5V supply.
> >
> > —
> > Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <
> >
#701 (comment)>
> > , or unsubscribe <
> >
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AABCURRTBD5GZJFSSVMRF2D2VRVDDAVCNFSM6AAAAABZD3XMTKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43URDJONRXK43TNFXW4Q3PNVWWK3TUHMYTENJYGE2TEOI>
> > .
> > You are receiving this because you authored the thread. <
> >
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> > @github.com>
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-
No, you would need likely about 5A of 12V powering the LEDs. Your step-down converter also connects to that 12V output and adds a minuscule additional load. So there’s no load on the step down converter except the ESP32.
So you’re 12V goes to the LEDs, your 5V to the module, connect the grounds, but NEVER connect the powers.
- Dave
… On Mar 22, 2025, at 9:52 AM, Robert Lipe ***@***.***> wrote:
You are missing something, I think. If you need brighter or longer strips,
use higher voltage strips and feed them from a power supply at the right
voltage. Then just step down down the 5v for the controller. This is an
extremely common configuration.
On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 11:26 AM slbailey ***@***.***> wrote:
> No I get that but you still need to deliver the amps through the step
> down. So if you’re using 10A (for example) to power everything at 5v, your
> step down has to be able to handle 10A, right? Or am I missing something?
>
>
>
> From: Robert Lipe ***@***.***>
> Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 11:34 AM
> To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
> Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
> Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
> power (Discussion #701)
>
>
>
> You don't. You use higher voltage strips and then use the $2 adapter to
> power the 5v controller.
>
> Tomioes experience matches that of many of us. You do the engineering,
> then
> you realize that youll never really have 144px/m of full white anyway
> because it'd be as bright as the sun, so you derate it down to something
> reasonable AND ensure it doesn't go over that.
>
> Those footbridges in the park rated at 16,000pounds will never see 16,000
> pounds, either. 16,000 pounds of humans (in cars) won't fit.
>
> If you DO want bright white, white LEDs (or rgbw) are much more power
> efficient to deliver white.
>
> On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 7:47 AM slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
> wrote:
>
> > Forgive me but where did you find a step down converter that could
> handle
> > 12.6A for $2?
> >
> >
> >
> > From: tomioe ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
> > Sent: Friday, March 21, 2025 3:55 PM
> > To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***>
> >
> > Cc: slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >; Author ***@***.***
> <mailto:***@***.***> >
> > Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
> > power (Discussion #701)
> >
> >
> >
> > When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately
> like
> > this:
> >
> > 53 LED's pr lamp arm * 4 = 212 led's @ 144 LED/m => 1.472 m @ 43.2 W/m
> =>
> > 63 W => 12.6A @ 5V
> >
> > I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU
> > straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects,
> it
> > rarely hits this theoretical maximum.
> >
> > For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw with
> > my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came
> near
> > what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and
> then
> > add +25% overhead.
> >
> > Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then add
> a
> > step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination
> of
> > e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper than
> a
> > $20 high-amp 5V supply.
> >
> > —
> > Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <
> >
> #701 (comment)>
>
> > , or unsubscribe <
> >
> https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AABCURRTBD5GZJFSSVMRF2D2VRVDDAVCNFSM6AAAAABZD3XMTKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43URDJONRXK43TNFXW4Q3PNVWWK3TUHMYTENJYGE2TEOI>
>
> > .
> > You are receiving this because you authored the thread. <
> >
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> > Message ID: ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***>
> > >
> >
> > —
> > Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
> > <
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>
> > or unsubscribe
> > <
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> > .
> > You are receiving this because you commented.Message ID:
> >
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>
> > @github.com>
> >
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>
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-
OK that’s what I was missing. Use 12V LEDs… Too late, already bought 5V. No worries, I’ll figure it out.
From: David W Plummer ***@***.***>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 1:31 PM
To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.***>
Cc: slbailey ***@***.***>; Author ***@***.***>
Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp -- power (Discussion #701)
No, you would need likely about 5A of 12V powering the LEDs. Your step-down converter also connects to that 12V output and adds a minuscule additional load. So there’s no load on the step down converter except the ESP32.
So you’re 12V goes to the LEDs, your 5V to the module, connect the grounds, but NEVER connect the powers.
- Dave
On Mar 22, 2025, at 9:52 AM, Robert Lipe ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> > wrote:
You are missing something, I think. If you need brighter or longer strips,
use higher voltage strips and feed them from a power supply at the right
voltage. Then just step down down the 5v for the controller. This is an
extremely common configuration.
On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 11:26 AM slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> > wrote:
> No I get that but you still need to deliver the amps through the step
> down. So if you’re using 10A (for example) to power everything at 5v, your
> step down has to be able to handle 10A, right? Or am I missing something?
>
>
>
> From: Robert Lipe ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
> Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 11:34 AM
> To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
> Cc: slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >; Author ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> >
> Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
> power (Discussion #701)
>
>
>
> You don't. You use higher voltage strips and then use the $2 adapter to
> power the 5v controller.
>
> Tomioes experience matches that of many of us. You do the engineering,
> then
> you realize that youll never really have 144px/m of full white anyway
> because it'd be as bright as the sun, so you derate it down to something
> reasonable AND ensure it doesn't go over that.
>
> Those footbridges in the park rated at 16,000pounds will never see 16,000
> pounds, either. 16,000 pounds of humans (in cars) won't fit.
>
> If you DO want bright white, white LEDs (or rgbw) are much more power
> efficient to deliver white.
>
> On Sat, Mar 22, 2025, 7:47 AM slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> <mailto:***@***.***> >
> wrote:
>
> > Forgive me but where did you find a step down converter that could
> handle
> > 12.6A for $2?
> >
> >
> >
> > From: tomioe ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> <mailto:***@***.***> >
> > Sent: Friday, March 21, 2025 3:55 PM
> > To: PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> <mailto:***@***.***>
> >
> > Cc: slbailey ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***> <mailto:***@***.***> >; Author ***@***.*** <mailto:***@***.***>
> <mailto:***@***.***> >
> > Subject: Re: [PlummersSoftwareLLC/NightDriverStrip] Atomic fire lamp --
> > power (Discussion #701)
> >
> >
> >
> > When I built my atomic lamp, my power calculations went approximately
> like
> > this:
> >
> > 53 LED's pr lamp arm * 4 = 212 led's @ 144 LED/m => 1.472 m @ 43.2 W/m
> =>
> > 63 W => 12.6A @ 5V
> >
> > I ended up putting an 8A supply in front of it, just wiring the PSU
> > straight through the power button. When running color-cycling effects,
> it
> > rarely hits this theoretical maximum.
> >
> > For my second lamp build a few years later, I tested the power draw with
> > my adjustable power supply and saw that the current never really came
> near
> > what I'd calculated for it. So, I definitely recommend doing that, and
> then
> > add +25% overhead.
> >
> > Also, another tip: consider getting a higher voltage brick and then add
> a
> > step-down converter that can handle your 5V amperage. This combination
> of
> > e.g. $10 12V PSU with a $2 step-down is usually smaller and cheaper than
> a
> > $20 high-amp 5V supply.
> >
> > —
> > Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <
> >
> #701 (comment)>
>
> > , or unsubscribe <
> >
> https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AABCURRTBD5GZJFSSVMRF2D2VRVDDAVCNFSM6AAAAABZD3XMTKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43URDJONRXK43TNFXW4Q3PNVWWK3TUHMYTENJYGE2TEOI>
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> > .
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I'm working on the hardware for the atomic fire lamp and got a question about power. Since the LEDs are using 5V and the ESP32 can take 5V, could I use a simple USBC power adapter for power or is it not enough amperage to do what needs to be done? I don't see the value in a giant power brick unless I need more Amps than the USBC can deliver at 5V. Right now I've got 51x4 WS2812B LEDs and the ESP32 itself.
Also wondering about putting a 5V power button on the front so I can turn it on and off with the press of a button.
Finally, I had some 12 gauge power (positive and negative) cable lying around. Is that too thick to use as the power wire? Should I use a smaller gauge?
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