v23.05.2: Austin Texas Agreement(ATXA) III

This is a bugfix-only release which repairs several issues reported in the wild. It is a recommended upgrade for anyone on v23.05.

• --enable-experimental-features compilation fixed.
• pay and decodepay with description now correctly handle JSON escapes (e.g " inside description)
• pay has undeprecated paying a description-hash invoice without providing the description (since it didn't work reliably until now!)
• GRPC: listpeers sometimes could fail on unknown HTLC states.

~ @rustyrussell, @ShahanaFarooqui, @endothermicdev, @cdecker, and @niftynei